87pathy

just dump water on it when it gets hot

I bet you its in your switch, they commonly fail. and yes it will alow only 1 light to work. when mine went out, i had 1 left low beam and 1 right high beam. replaced the switch 74 bucks from the steeler and all is good. because of they way they are wired, its very hard to trouble shoot.

no, just keep letting it fall down and hope you don't step on it.

those kid of people PISS ME OFF

the bushing that hold the seal.. WTF? its a press in seal.. 12 bucks.. from autozone.

AIV solenoid, swtch or box. mine does the same, and didn't before i had Air Idle Valve (adds more air at idle). problems. didn't find the problems till i took it in during my emissions fiasco.

tire pressure.

you can get the "c"s for radius arms from broncograveyard if i remember correctly. Check out the bronco web sites for the radius arm stuff.

replace with a nissan clutch. from my local nissan technician. "I have never seen a nissan clutch fail". worn out, yes.. fail. NO. I replaced mine at 340K and it was still in working order.

I hurculined my rig front to back. 2 coats everywhere, 3 coats in the High traffic areas (floor boards and cargo area) I cleaned up but did not remove the tar sound dampener. I ran a wire brush over everythign, and then cleaned with acetone. did the hurcliner over 2 years ago and its holding up well. the only place it has an issue is righ behind the drivers seat. It gets hot there due to the cat and its cracking a little bit, but nothing to be concerned about.

Not sure.. just call around. Yellow pages are your friend.

I am going to throw this at you. i don't know what year, or what models but i do know there was a few VG030's out there that had a longer crank shaft. so, there is at least some trueth to it

for the price, i wouldn't go to the wrecker. I just recenty had to replace mine. Well, since my rig is not a DD I called around. I had a company come to my house, take out my old windshield, put a new one in it (with installation guarantee) new trim, haul off the smashed old one. Im now 215 bucks poorer. Thats actually a great price. your going to pay 100 for a piece of glass, 30 bucks in new trim (cause you will screw up the old one) and 30 bucks in eurethane.. how much are you really saving. I'm one of those DIY guys (even on stuff i shouldn't) but i could not pass this up for the cost.

see linky http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579364 His lower mounts were wrong, causing the bending. there is another link someplace,,, i looked and looked and looked but couldn't find it. you could do this, its not rocket science.

i've seen these thing NOT engage may times, even on new frontiers. it happens when you try to go back and forth between forward and reverse.

plain and simple, nissan auto hubs suck. wait till you get stuck, try to backup.. but they don't lock because your not moving.. and then they make the dreaded.. clack clack clack clack.. 100 bucks, lifetime warranty manual replacements.... no more worries.

even better, there is a writeup on Pirate that a guy used coil overs instead of the torsion bars. less custom fab that changing the torsion bar location.

you can't screw up the rotor, did you put the screw back in? these things will run out of wack, at one time my was running 10 deg off and still ran good.

go to tool box. get hammer take hammer to said part and beet it into submision. put hammer back in tool box

same here, 14 years on mine and only lost the VR once. I ran it with a bad VR (18v+) for over a year, just turned everything on all the time.

you can get leaves to flex nearly as good as a link suspension. one of the biggest advantages of a liked suspension is that axle wrap is non existant. and If your coils are the correct rate, they won't unload as bad and start hopping like leaves do. yes coils can hop, but not as bad as leaves leaves are cheap reliable, and simple

it'll cause your rig to dogleg down the road. thats the pulling..

I'd link it. Seriously talk to B about the poly kit. And as long as you run the Advanced adaptors nissan tranny - 6 bolt transfer case, the diff will be on the correct side. I've only had the liner rates in since christmas time. I've been on a dozen wheeling trips, and so far the only difference i can tell, is that the linerars ride better down the FSR. however, the variables WERE better, till they sagged then the lower rate was bottomed out and when i'd hit a chuck hole the higer rate would go bang, just a little harsher. but they flex about the same. I think i'd like the linear rate coils in the back better, i want to try it, but i have to modify them to work in the back for me, and i don't want to do that till i'm satisfied with the front, or not...

balmer, for springs, go with Early bronco, 5.5 for the front. you choose what brand, I have ran the Duel rate wild horses and currently running the BC bronco linier rate. I have yet to make up my mind wich ones are better. Your D60 chev pumpkin in on the WRONG side. However, check on getting it re-tubed. Check with B or Mikey (nutbar) at jeep thrills, and see what it would cost to re-tube it, can't hurt. With the angle of the nissan T-case and the low pinion differnetial, you might have to lift the ass end of your t-case up to get good u-joint angles, or maybe even a CV. To run 37 or bigger, your going to have to push the front end forward a little bit, 2 inches should do, if not your tires will hit hte fire wall at full lock under compression. Its nearly imposible to push the steering box foreward. Have a look at it, the end of the steering box is up against your Radiator. If your going to link it all around, seriously consider the Poly performacne 4 link rear and 3 link front, good value. B can also hook you up with these. as for lifting the rear, same coils up front wilkl work in the rear, in the stock nissan coil buckets, You just have to cut off the tang, or you could go with some RE ZJ 5" lift coils. Here is a picture of my tranny cross memeber, it may look funny but its strong as hell and I have never had 1 single issue with it. if you dig around in my photo bucket, you will get some more suspension ideas too. good luck, and if you need help, just ask.. but i wont' reply on here and fibc.

easy... make your mount same lenght as the lift, Bolt it on in the existing location, then weld it.. its only single shear at the axle now. and as far as the triangulated 4 link.. the problem with it is, most people don't have the know how to do it. In addtion, if you loose 1 link, your done. You can loose a link end with the "5" link setup and still get home.