87pathy

its the oil companies paying off the auto manufacturers to de-tune the motors why does my 87 pathy with 350K miles on it get better milage than my 2000 frontier did new? something like 22 Vs 17

torque converter locked up?

blah.. screw the dealer. lifting by the exhust or intake holes will work. but i bet the lift lugs are there.

i missed one thing. twisted stock shaft.. because i CAN'T GET A SPARE FROM A JY. (and the curries are 450 bucks) I'm running Pre-73 9 3/8 housing wich is heavier and stronger than a standard 9". also, due to this normal shafts won't fit (wrong lenghts) Pre 73 31spline 9" shafts are nearly the same OD as 14bFF shafts. (had them sitting side by side). the only differenece is, the 9" I have (normally they are different) does not kneck down. most 9" shafts neck down just inside the bearing, and then back up to normal OD at teh splines.. Mine don't kneck down at all till you get to teh splines, even then they are not necked down, just the spline cut into them.

I"m pretty sure the factory lift points are left on all our engines. I've never pulled on on an R50, but I have on several wd/d21's. passengers side front and drivers side rear.. there were factory lift points. Have a look. good luck. on another note, I don't know if yours is an auto or manual, but if its a auto, unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate, don't try and pull the torque converter out of the tranny with the engine, You stand a 98% change of screwing up the seals.

damn dude, take some advice! I have 3.7:1 gears in the case, stak D300 doubler, i'm at 211:1 crawl ratio overall. look it up.. stock D60 shafts ARE stronger than D44 alloys.. I won't even get into this..its common knowledge. anyway.. have fun, i was trying to be helpfull, but you know more.. I've been wheeling my built pathfinder for over 3 years and with 5.38:1 ratio its same as stock.. so its right around 42:1.. (5.14:1 ratio gets back to stock with 36" tires)

BTW.. to answer your question. They all need gears.. and stock D60 shafts are stronger than d44 alloys. that saves 700 bucks

the shaft has been twisted for at least 2 years..it was like that when i got it for all i remember.. its been like that. same one... you obviously don't know me or my rig... google my screan name. Ive wheeled my pathy in some extremely hard core situations. from Princton BC to the rubicon up and down the entire west coast and know what i'm talking about. the 14 bolt is cheap and easy to come buy. but its wide and heavy. I GUARANTEE as soon as you lock the front, your going to break shafts anyway. I broke 2 in 3 months and an alloy and a detroit locker. If your going to put that big heavy pig in the back, put a D60 up front don't waist money on a D44. IF you push your axle forward, plan on Full Hydro, the steering box is in the way to move it more than about 1-2" (noth worth it) and you can't move the steering box forward becuase it hits the rad. You could get a scout front swting box, but then it will be in the way of your springs (i assume your doing link suspension) do as you please, its your rig.. I'm just putting it out there.

flat tire will take it out, or if you air down at all for the snow.. tire will flex and hit. I PROMISE. get some offset wheels to fix this problem.

I've had water hit my windshield, our air boxes are pretty good.

I disagree. a slow intermitant turning starter can be caused by binding. binding can be caused by the following. 1 crap built up. 2. worn or chipped brushes 3. heat. i.e. My old ford would crank fine when its cold, but warm.. almost wouldn't turn over. changed the starter... and guess what... no more issues. get a set of jumper cables and bypass everything. try to start it by going direct fromt eh starter to the battery. If the problem still exists, change the starter.

snorkle? depends where you are at, in texas or Winterpeg.. ya go for it.. in "our" neck of hte woods.. waist of money

NO. Not unless you get a different T-case. Patrol front axle's have the differential on the passengers side. Pathfinders differential is on teh drivers side.

BS. If you think your going to bust a 9" shaft with a nissan 3.L. you need to go back to driving school. i have had a twisted shaft in my 9" for nearly 2 years. I have busted D44 alloys and the detroit. By your logic, just go BB and get a D60 up front, no need to mess around and spend 1K + on a D44 when you can get a D60 for that price. make sure you at lest run 40's because that 14b on 38's is going to be a ditch digger. my 9" on 36s is a ditch digger. if your going to only run 38's you don't want a 14B. I have seen 9" rears hold up to 38 14.5's without issue, as well as 8.8's. I will be running 38's next year when my 36's are done and the ONLY thing i'm worried about is my D44 front end. FYI, check the actual OD on the 38's you want to run.. Let me guess, you want some tsl/sx's.. they measure only 1.1" larger in diamter than the 36" tsl. (36 x 12.5 tsl = 36.3"OD - 38 x 12.5 tsl sx= 37.4 OD.)

find a company that will produce TX10- domestic or other t-case. so far the only one that has really stepped up for this is NWF in victoria BC. I got one on a production run.. and there were 10 left after that. don't know if there will ever be more. this will allow so many more gearing options for the more "hardcore" nissan guys out there.

actually, converting a 9" to disks isn't as easy as you think. You can't find rotors that will fit over teh axle flange. You can buy kits, but they are expensive. there are a few OE disk brake 9" out there but they are not a bolt on fit, due to offset of the wheel flange Vs. bearing position. the cheapo easy way is use Samuri front rotors and ZX300 rear calipers.

idesl at 7500-8000? wow.. thats way past redline.. I'm sure you ment 750-800. If she has short legs, I'm willing to bed she's not pushing in the clutch quite far enough to activate the safety switch.

You can get alloys for them. I know several people who have gotten them. You can always get them from dutchman If you want to go full width balmer, find a F150 or FS bronco doner

do a compression leak down test. you can get a compression tester from autozone for free.. to barrow that is

that would work, but for the best handeling, you want your track bar as parallel with the earth as possible

ebrake lever? wow thats been gone for a while now. the biggest problem with the blead down is people put them on drum brakes.. WRONG. they don't work well with drum brakes. (thats why I don't even have a parking brake now) also, if you get the micro locks, they work better than a standard "line lock"

this is how mine DID work. until i disconnected them due to a short.

Pinion brakes on teh axles.. same concept, different location. (i.e. look at a set of Rocks, rockwell axles that is) I would say the sparking is from a metalic pad on a metalic disk and gettting really hot.

but in all seriousness. If i'm out, barring a catastrophe (engine, tranny, t-case..) I carry spares and tools to fix anyting on my rig. If i'm out alone or on an exploration adventure.. I carry stuff to cook and sleep with.

I oxy acetlene welded them. stick blows through unless you can turn it down to around 10 amps