87pathy

balmer, you can't do it because the slip is on the t-case. you would have to make it stationary. i.e. slip yoke eliminator, and then some custom fab stuff. why would you do this was asked? simple, to keep the cables from getting ripped off. As soon as i get my D300 in, i'm going to be putting on a drive shaft brake

after i found out where i wanted them, I took a sawszall to them. I cut out both sides down to where it gets flat. On the flat top, I bent the outer portion of the door over and tacked it to the inner. Then i layed the sheet metal over the top of it all and welded it 100% up and down both sides. the tops of the inners are welded in, but the bottom is screwed on, this way i can access the inside of the door to work on the mechanism if i ever need to. My doors are strong as hell as well. I have smashed trees up against them and even though they dent in the bottom, the top of the half doors work amazing. don't dent and keep everybody inside safe.

nope not at all. i can see everything with my half doors. (and they hold me in) I'll find some more pictures of them.

if it came factory on the rig, you have to have it on. jeep mirror were on the doors.

the law says you have to keep the orignal mechanism. anywhoo... only the cj5'S are allowed to run without doors, because they were a factory OPTION.

i had to change the fuel filler hose. had to loosen and rotate the lower rad hose to get the kink out.. no other issues and nothing else had to be changed.

stupid hacked toyota half doors. If you going to do half doors, follow 2 simple rules. keep them above your hips, and keep the original latch mechanism. this will keep the popo away. Nissan half doors

those pins are only hard to get out the first time. them make sure they are clean and lubricated. I just hit them once with a punch and hammer, hold the door up, grab the pin with my two little fingers. Pull on the pin giggle the door, and they come right out.

you guys should lok at my half doors cost me 40 bucks to build

amerian eagle are the only good ones. do not buy procrap wheels. I bent 4 in the first 2 months i had them. I banged into a stump (not hard) and it bend the lip OUT about 2".

rear pan hard bushings would be my guess as well.

could be a plugged radiator. exactly what mine did. can you keep it cool by turning on the heat full blast? if so, its your rad.

thats stock height.

if you are not lifted the 32 x 11.5 will not fit

frame or diff clearance. Mine was like 14" before i modified it. (frame center)

make sure to clean that water infested greese out of your cv and replace it with some good greese. or you'll be changing the whole cv soon.

I've always used Powdered Laundry detergent with bleach.. works pretty good, scrub it with a broom

those look like aftermarket boots. I've found that those are pretty stiff and don't flex as well. maybe try some OEM type..

500 bucks for a set of tires? why didn't i catch that before? that will be nearly impossible.

http://www.goodyeartires.com/goodyeartires...a=Light%20Truck

2 bolts and 2 wires? with the body lift it comes out fairly easily because you can reach in between the frame and body. I changed mine when it was still stock and it took about 45 min My stuff is All stock around that area.

takes about 20 min to change the starter. and even easier since you have a body lift

pull your starter and put it on the ground. Get a set of jumper cables and put it directly to the starter. if it spins freely and tries to jump and roll over (make sure you hold it really good or put it in a vice) then its OK, if not.. check your grounds.

na, just put it in 4 low and 3rd gear

starter is fawked