87pathy

IN just about any engine re-build, you shouldn't need any RTV.. except in some special places.

i found a loose wire to the ECU when mine did this.. couldn't tell you wich wire it was

there were 2 different spline counts in teh wd21.. need to know specs before buing used manual hubs.

So, anybody have experience with advancing valve timing to move your power band? I'd like to move it from about 2000 RPM's down to about 1500. What would you recommend? 10 deg?

man, if i did ALL that before a wheeling trip.. i'd never be wheeling. Most of those items should never even be an issue. if they are, your rig is having a sever lack of maintanance

the pigeon toe is generally from cranking the torsion bars too much

Tool bag, check suspension and steering bolts tight, check Wheels on tight, check Fluids OK, check Grease ALL u-joints, check Beer in the cooler, check and.. oh get another box.. just in case

You have an e-brake? on another note... put your sway bar back in and make some mechanica QD's for it.. what your talking about i could buid 100 set of QD's for the price of your shock system. and air alwasy leaks off ALWAYS

yep, and the engine would rev up too. did you smell amonia?

yes.. there is, do a compression check on the suspected cylinder. Record the pressures. Dump about a cap full of oil down each spark plug whole (suspected ones, one at a time) and check the pressue again and if the pressure comes up.. its rings.. if not.. its valves.

If it wouldn't rev and its a manual, then something is really out of whack.. My guess is that its an automatic and he left the parking brake on

I just sent those links to every nissan hating toyota *** i know!

if your going to be welding that kind of support to the body mount, it would be easier to cut off teh old ones and move them up 3"

trailer the whole thing. you will lack lubrication in the T-case, tranny if you tow it. Now you could pull the drive shaft and flat tow it, but with the setup our sigs have, when you do that you will loose oil out of the t-case. But a 2 liter bottle, rag and duct tape will fix that..

i go lots of places others don't.. i even take the buggy lines

ball joint, tie-rod ends, idler arm, any of those

oh ya, shes done. my frontier had less damage and they totaled it.

whats shipping to 98375? it its like 20 bucks.. i'll take it

Ok, well.. since its last bath (deep water crossing), my pathy runs anywhere from 14V-18+.. depending on the engine RPM. this is easy to diagnose as the voltage regulator. (18 VDC at 3000 rpms) I have always been under the impression, that the voltage regulator is Internal to the Nissan alternators (mine is an 87 wd21, 3.0L). However, if you look up voltage regulator for the nissan i have, you can find one. at all parts stores for as little as 13 bucks. http://www.autozone.com/R,APP203411/vehicl...oductDetail.htm it looks like it attaches to the back side of the alternator near the wire plug. Has anybody changed this before? is it easy? i have skills.. kinda a 13 dollar part is better than a 100 dollar alternator. Thanks in advance

BS. Those ones you build would last all of 5 min on the trail. if welfing to the frame is no good,, i better stop driving mine! In THEORY only.. you are not supposed to weld perpendicular to the frame. but keep it /// or \\\\. I've been beating the @!*% out of mine for over 2 years and no issues (expept the one spot, but i asked for that). Yosi, the way you did your are OK. But i'd really try and triangulate them off the frame a bit more. having them welded on perpendicular.. IS going to cause frame pinching if you come doown on them hard.

better put some more gussets in at the frame.. mine are done pretty much the same way (small differences) I came down hard, bent the 2x3x.188 tube, and pinched the frame..

well, not that i want to argue (for some reason i thought you had an R50), but that still goes in the back of the T-case. it goes in the same place as the mechanical. if your speedo is picked up from the tranny, what happends when you put it in 4lo?.. are you going 20 when your speedo says 40? If i'm wrong.. please prove it to me.. and i'll eat crow!

for my own knowledge and to clarify this.. i'd like to see a picture of where your speedo enters the Tranny. the VSS still comes off of the back of the t-case. this has been covered on Pirate4x4 as well, for the doubler. (how to get the speedo back.)

ya, i know he does.. been wheeling with him. I have one too.. had it out many times. The plastic gear inside is driven of of the output shaft by a retainer and a ball bearing. I know in later years they went to the Vss. But couldn't tell you what years. I can't see squat in those pics..

its a picture of an R50 tranny and T-case showing where the speedo connects. Now, i have to rely on my information on this, as i've never worked on an R50 personally. I got this from a forum showing a auto-manual swap in an R50.