87pathy

is your coil wire connected? my rig runs with it being 10deg out of timing? something is hay wire.

when i had to change my MC it was cheaper to get a new one, than to get the rebuild parts.

just take your steering wheel off and turn it back straight.

since you are now running disks and your previous setup was drums, Take out your residual pressure valve. Also, make damn sure that your lines are tight. I had one that would not leak, but it let air in. Every time i bled just the 1 I got air out. I was thinking about your MC and i think its big enough. The rotors on the back are big, but they don't use any more oil than my worn out 11" drums. (lots of travel in the cyl). I could be wrong. Bring it over and i'll help you do everything.

are you serious? I paid 20 bucks shipping each time i've ordered springs (2x from wildhorses 1 x from bcbronco's) and had them in 3 days.

i've had water splash over my hood and the bush pig kept running.

whatever you do, do not get a 110 V machine. you will not be happy with the power, the control, or the finished product. if your gonna go bling bling, get a machine that can do both Tig and arc. Then you can tig your body pannels back together, and you have the versatility of arc. (stick)

if its reverse cut, its hight pinion, i don't think you have a high pinion. Who ever you spoke to at AC was drinking the bong water.

in this part of the world, i say NO to snorkles. I've been wheeling this part of the world for along time, and you'll rip the snorkle off on a tree branch WAY before you cross water deap enough to need it.

you should be able to use the stock ones.

make sure and use some good gear oil in there too

your vehicle is lug centric, not hub... get the right lug nuts.

I had the same problem.. it was the tranny mount. Changed it and all is good.

you can get the same ratios 5:13:1 dana 5.14 h233b 4.90:1 h233b - 4.88:1 Dana Your going to want at least this low as long as they are withing 1.5% of each other its fine

I'd be more curious, because to my knowledge they never put a D60 in a Grand waggoneer. the price is OK.. A d44 in a pathy is boarderline.. they are PIGS.. A dana 60 is ment for hauling weight, therefore larger bearings alxes.. ect.. for horsepower applications a 9" is just as strong and half the weight. They can be picked up for under 150 bucks

Looks liek you have about what.. 40 deg between the 2 uppers? if so thats fine, if its less it will wiggle. I run 50 on mine. also a little more triangulation on the lowers will help with flex steer.

Thermostat would be my first thought and check your tires. My 87 when it was still stock, was one of the best driving vehicles in the snow i ever had. Check your alignment, tires, and air pressure.

change the switch.. that is EXACTLY what mine did

Beer

My point was to give other alternatives to going synthetic and knowing what else will work. the only thing i run in my pathy that is recommended from the manufacturer is the engine oil. I have been using alternatives for a long time. Just made this statement so others can have viable information thats comming from somebody who knows what they are talking about. for example. dino GL4 is getting hard to find. But you can use Mobile - mobilgear 630 (which is a GL5)(sae90) and it will be fine. The issue with most GL5 is that it contains antiwear additive. Antiwear additives are made up of Phosphorus and other addatives. Soft meatals have phosphorus in them as well. Now, phosphorus is a loose term, it can be alcoline or acidic. When you start mixing different PH levels together at unknown amounts and ratios, this is what "eats" up your sincros. Shell omala 220 is also OK.

um.. ya, whatever. like i said, it is MANDATORY from a couple of aftermarket differential companies. 150 for your diffs is not too thick. it is a bit thick for your tranny. I deal with oil and gears and hydraulics for a living.

well since your tranny is that bad. Motor Oil: Valvoline 10-40 high milage Tranny: Shell Omala 320 (NOT HD) Transfer case 80-90 Rear diff 90-150 Front diff 90-150 Many people will tell you that the 150 is too thick.. BS. Been running it in both of my HP diffs for 2 years. and is MANDITORY for my HP9"

Personnaly after my bad experience with redline, i wouldn't use it. (after switching, my seals from tranny to t-case failed, causing my tranny to drain all its oil into the t-case out in the middle of nowhere) Look for some industrial lube oil for you tranny. most of the time you can only buy it 5 gallon buckets. I'm using Omala 320 wich is SAE 150. but is soft metal compatible (i know this cause we use it in our high end gear boxes with thrust bushings, plus i have verified this with shell). its a bit thick, but my tranny was on its last leg when i switched it. I've been running it for 9 months without issue). You can probably get some shell omala 220 wich is SAE 90. just dont use th HD. this has phosphorus anti wear additives that react with your sincros and eat them up. BTW, a 5 gallon bucket of omala 320 was only 60 dollars

watts linkage is for street rods. you won't get the axle travel with it as you will a pan hard.. or just do the math, run duel triangulated links and get rid of the pan hard.

remember pathy's have kick ass heaters