87pathy

which one. I have recently discoverd that a first gen pahtyfinder with a 3.0 TBI, will run at 8K rpms without blowing up...

i know a way to pait it a nice mud color and texture..lol

the bushings are different,but the cups are very similar. you could find the cups in a junk yard. i just happend to have some extras, cause when i change the ford bushings, i don't always change the steel cup (no reason too, keep the good ones for spares, in case) just another option.

when im back in the states.. lol

I just did this fix as well on my DD 89 pathy. the holes were wollowed out, and the "cups" destroyed. I rebuilt the holes with weld.. and teh cups.. get this, cheaper and easier than teh bearing up idea. As some of you know i have a ford radius arm suspension.. I change those busings like i change oil. the bushings ALWAYS come with new cups. wouldn't you know.. they are just about the exact same dimentions as the nissan cups down there. Hole size same, cup diamter same.. they are just a little thicker.. so, i welded one of these on each side, cleaned it all up with my die grinder.. and WHALA

a GOOD IR 3/8 impact only puts out 75 ft lbs when new. at 110PSI so if you have a lesser quality, or older one, ow lower air pressure.. Your only torquing it to aroudn 60-65 ft lbs. which is within range.

Tensioning is the best way to go, but impractical, we used stud tensioners for anyting longer than 300mm long and over M30 diamter. the longer the bolt the more deflection you get during torque, leading to more inconsistant torque values.

Ok, if you REALLY want to get into detail ALL torque values are supposed to be wiht new bolts and light oil on the threads. You are NEVER supposed to torque a bolt more than once. Lock washers are garbage, cause they dialate over use, and the bolt becomes loose, leading to fatigue failure. You have to remember, if its yours, do what you want, but if you are making a recomondation to somebody, you better make sure your right. will it fail.. can't say but for 5 bucks? come on.. change them.

really, for the whole 5 dollars it will cost you.

you ever had a drive shaft come apart at 65mph? google it.

I'd almost put money on it. my buddy had the same problem.

plus or minus 5% actually, so, its still too much.. just saying you may be fine for years to come... but you might not.. I only tighten my u joinst with a wrench.. if i can't push on it with a WRENCH,, its tight.

For that high of a torque its either a grade 10.9, or its an M14, odd ball thing. i have access to engineering charts for bolt torque that i use every day.

ok, lets look at it this way. 56 ft/lbs is 80% of proof load. (standard engineering value) so, proof load (safe operating range) is 67.2 ft/lbs. You over toruqed them by 11%. will it fail.. maybe not.. but do you really want to take that chance?

that alty won't put out more that 18V. I ran mine for 1.5 years at 18 volts. I'd ve investigating a short.

changing a Nissan H233 for a Dana 44 is going backwards.

200K, There is nothing wrong with it. IF you put in a 350, DON'T PUT A CARBED ENGINE IN IT!!! that is so, 80 yo technology.

if in fact they are 12mm grade 8.8, (which i think they are) and you torqued them to 75, they now need to be thrown away because you are just about at yeild of the bolt. and have over torqued them. (which means you have stretched them beyond safe use)

yup, rear hatch..

I'll make it one day....

German specs. Gudentite. i think they are M12 bolts. so it would be about 55 ft pounds.

got randies Ring and pinion to upgrade my D44 alloy shafts to the new hardcore shafts. FREEEEEEE of charge.. those guys rock.

baffle pack is alot like a glas pack, but has baffles in it. glass packs are not spark arrestors, and cuold get you in trouble.

get a high flow cat and a baffle pack. works great and will pass emisions.