87pathy

i agree completely, you shoul dsee mine.. lol

i've seen them go THROUGH windshield and break the rear. lucky your hear to tell the story.

most upgraded tow points are weld on D rings. I'm telling you IF you have full well on or bolt on D rings, get a strap and shackle. If you have a hook, get a regualr tow strap WITHOUT metal on the ends. pulling people around is a way of life for me. (i'm a pretty hard core wheeler) I would never, nor would i let anybody, hook a metal ended strap to anybody or thing near me. they are dangerous Please head this advice.

not pre-owned, but used..

gear lube in the tail pipe at least?

condoms

shackle, D ring, clevis, etc, depending on where you are from, they call them different thigns.. they don't pop off at funny angles.

DO NOT USE TOW STRAPS WITH HOOKS ON THE END if/when they come loose, its a loaded rocket.

go by a constuction site, and find a 20 ton strap that has a friction burn.. they are often found in the dumpster. it will last you forever.

there have been people that used them. 88pathoffroad used them and bent his control arms. i really don't think they are a great idea.

put plate on the side of your frame rails, where your shock hoops are going to go. not sure about the rear, never done a leaves on teh rear of the pathy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIx4Y3TvAPk&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrG26IUV6q8

F.%^King R.uined A.nother M.otor

couple things. 1) fram have always been crap, always will be crap, if you use a fram filter, you might as well just dump crap in your engine. 2) i use carquest 10-40. its made by valvoline. 3) wix filters are the only way to go. (see napa gold or carquest) I am very anti fram. I have seen every problem imgainable from fram. the only reason they sell is because of marketing.. kind of like insttant coffee, its crap, but people still buy it cause its cheap and marketing is good.

I get 20 in my 89POS, easily on the highway..

do not blead it at the damper. blead it at the master cylinder. I have never touched the damper and have changed both slave and master at different times. If this does not work, THEN bypass the damper.

they are trying to weasel out of it. there is more to it than that, but thats the jist.

not going to red through all the Bs. yes, it will grind, it is normal. think about it, your T case does not have synchros to get the next gear spinnign at the same spead as the previous one. so try cramming w gear into another one that is moving at a different speed. YOU MUST BE AT A FULL STOP, TRANNY IN NUETRAL (OR CLUTCH IN) before shifting into 4L from anything.

bump. lets keep this moving. even if you don't wheel this place, the whole issue is. KEEP THE PUBLIC LANDS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC. the closure of public lands are comming YOUR way!!!!!

possibly, but it can't hurt..

expecially for us USA, NW folks, Reiter foothills was closed 1.5 years ago. Lets try and get it back open sign this online petiion. http://www.petitiononline.com/Reiter/petition.html

push, unlatch pull.. all in one motion. I've fixed several of them this way.. worth a try. funny, a buddy of mine was saying... it won't upen, its unlocked.. bla bla bla i went right over and opened it.. (i know the trick)

well, I have whitnessed my tak at 7k... on this particular instance, i wasn't even paying attention My wife yelled "STOP, YOUR GONNA BLOW IT UP, YOU ARE AT 8 ON THE RPM METER" I was paying closer attention to the trees, i was trying not to hit.