adamzan

I switched my wd21 (at 228,700km at the time of the change) over to Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w50, yes 5w50, 3000 km ago and its still full on the dipstick. The valve tapping is gone on startup unless its like -30 out which i don't blame it. Also my mpg went up, throttle response is better, and I swear it even sounds smoother, especially on acceleration.

Also depending on where you live, it might be hard to find what you want. For example, here in ottawa ontario, I could not find a 5 speed wd21 within a reasonable distance that wasn't either rusted to hell, or spent its life on the quebec side that obviously looked like it had the chit driven out of it. I don't mind my auto, as I sit in traffic 2 days of the week. But I also find that I get 15 city 18 hwy (like its rated for). If i drive it really conservatively or let it shift at around 3000-3500, my mileage stays the same. But sometimes you really need to goose it to keep up in traffic It is all about your preference like said before, but IMHO, if I find one thats in better shape but didn't have the trans I wanted, I'd still take it over the one that has the trans I want, but may have a rusted frame, engine burning oil, yadda yadda yadda.

Thats too clean for a wd21, where is the little rust spots and dings/scratches

It says in his profile that he has a 95, I'm not sure if the 95s have that button, my 93 and 95 don't

There already is a skidplate around the gas tank dude. I think all pathys have it. But its not THAT thick.

I'd like to see pics of what the belt looked like when it failed.

Like making that skidplate REAL thick, by the time they get halfway through, you or someone is bound to find out.

Wow you really know what you're talking about, you must be an engineer I say that as my dads friend is a mechanical engineer and everytime I see him we somehow get talking about my and my dads pathfinders. He said the same thing that you did about the belt today, that its not going to break exactly 1000 miles over. For example in my 93 my dad said he never replaced the timing belt and the truck has 340,000 kilometers, and never had a problem.

And thats also why the japanese imports can squeeze more power in a smaller package. Or so I've heard. I can't belive it but the guy at one of the nissan dealers here told me that only the 60k belts were ones you had to worry about and the 105k ones typically would last the life of the truck. Will never be going back there again.

Oh sorry, i forgot that the 93+ have the round tooth belts and the 87-92 have the square. My bad. I wouldn't drive that thing too much then, I rememeber when the tbelt snapped on our 89 mazda 929 (it was an interference engine, but somehow survived)

So....for me its Canada(expensive)--->USA(cheaper)--->Mexico(cheapest)

Uh, I'd do it ASAP, it's due every 105k miles. I'm at 140 and I'll be changing mine in the next day or two. You could wait, but as it's been ed into me many many times, its a ticking timebomb. If it goes, you pretty much need a new engine.

That sounds exactly like what I'm talking about. Does the steering wheel lock when you've turned the truck off and removed the key? like take out the key and turn the wheel and it should lock. If not well.....That might be why. My 93's key is worn like that too.

I think my alternator is new, but I might have already killed it I can hear noise when i put the defrost on in the -20 temps, or is this normal? Don't mean to threadjack.

If i push the drivers lock down with the door open all the locks will lock and stay locked, but if the keys are in the ignition it won't stay locked. (on my 93 and 95). I think there's a thread around here that deals with the power lock actuator.

holy crap that sucks man, hope you were ok.

Have you tried checking to see if when you pull the key out of the ignition that you hear the click of that thing that senses whether the key is in the ignition or not. Not sure what its called, but that happend to my friend once. It got stuck and it kept thinking the keys were in the ignition.

for a quick and temporary fix you could just grease up the cv and duct tape the boot together. Although, if your not in 4wd the cv's don't spin on these trucks.

Strangely enough, since I've driven a wd21 with disk brakes, and one with drums, and an r50, I'd have to say the stopping power is only marginally better with the disk brakes. Unfortunatly, in all three trucks I've had come into brake slamming situations , but the rear drums last longer and since I'm lazy, its a good combo. Although I do like the simplicity of replacing the 4 wheel discs on my 93. But to answer the original question, I don't think it'd be too hard, like grimgreg said, to rig something up with an r50 cover, as the dimensions are probably nearly the same. (width)

Actually when you're trying to load stuff in the back of the r50 that stupid thing can be annoying.

Like he said, cheapest, most stupidly designed.

IMHO i think you should've done the t-belt and water pump and all that crap before you put it in, or at least do it before you put the radiator and everything back in. The interval is 105k miles or for us canadians 168k kilometres. But I plan to do mine on my spring break, and I'll take some pics to help the wd21 owners out, because the pics in the how to are for an r50, although its almost exactly the same.

Your an inspiration for me, if you can do that, I surely can do my timing belt. By the way, was that all done on this new engine?

Yeah mine gets warm too, but when its -25 like it was today, I'm not complaining about having a nice leg warmer!