adamzan

My old one went from ottawa to washington dc and somewhere in virginia like 3 or 4 times, all of those times nothing ever let us down, although while we were at my dads friends place (our destination) we did replace the front and rear bumpers, although that was planned when we left. Also there where countless trips from ottawa to montreal, toronto, mont tremblant (resort). the last road trip we ever took her on was a few weeks before we stopped driving it. It had 340k on it and we left ottawa, drove to montreal to see my uncle, drove around there a bit, then headed up to mont tremblant for a nice vacation. After that we went straight back to ottawa. Truck had no issues. Ever. I'd drive my new one to florida and back right now. If i had the cash

Yeah I pulled off the tail gate skin, and all the connections look good. The motor just isn't working and it isn't coming down enough to push that little switch that lets the hatch open. But it doesn't matter right now as the right glass hinge is broken Thanks, I couldn't remember what that rust converter was called. People around here told me to por15 the frame too. Ill do it this spring. I'm going to be working on the torsion bars and tcase linkage today before it goes in for the speaker installation. I'll post up some detailed pics of what happened if i can.

How did you guys plug them in my factory plugs are different than the new infinity's i just got. Is an adapter available, or am I supposed to just solder the wires to the new speakers.

woo thanks. now my truck will finally be level!

Also gotta oil up all those little rust patches so they don't' get worse. Then time for sanding and priming in the spring woot.

Looks like we're in the same situation, i just need to lift my right side to make it even.

Yeah I checked the fuse for the wiper and its fine, And i took off the tailgate skin and everything looked alright, I'll try and take off the motor and test it out sometime. Thanks. Got something to keep me busy now lol

I've tried to do a search and nothing is coming up. My transfer case shifter linkage or whatever its called is broken, can I fix this myself easily? And are the parts going to be expensive? See my pic for what I'm talking about. Also the front end is sagging on the right I believe i need to crank up the torsion bar. How do I do that, I have a vague idea but I want to be sure. Another thing, my frame on this one is perfectly solid but there is a lot of crap (sand) inside the rail in the rear, would it be a good idea to drive the truck up on some ramps so when i stick the pressure washer inside the holes that the crap drains out the back? And finally, my window trim on the rear windows is quite rusty, I know this is common problem. But how easy is it to change the pieces. Is it as simple as popping the old one off and sliding the new one on? Also have to change the rear wiper motor as its not working.

Damn then my after market head unit is going through the stock amps and speakers then. Because the tweeters are working and the sound is, well, not the greatest. I would really like to find some 5x7's made by a reputable company that will fit with no trouble, but I guess I'm almost out of luck. Time to get creative

Don't worry naturatek i get beat on here all the time as well, but we can't help it if their ego's are massive

I don't know how you can blow the tweeters I blast mine stock system the time and they're fine. Yeah Ilovemypatty, they did come with tweeters, i don't know which year started that, but im sure simon would know

This happened to me when i first tried to open the hood on my new to me 95. What you have to sure of is when you you give the release in the truck a good tug, make sure the person outside lifts at the exact same time that you pull it. Worked perfectly for me and haven't had a problem since. It works if you time it right.

I think its the one on the right. Because If i hit it (the headlamp), my right DRL starts working again.

I have that for pc, now im gonna go install it so i can have something to do in class

Actually if you press the gas hard enough once it'll come on in my truck, or if you're climbing a steep incline and you give it more gas, it'll engage.

Probably the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay. That happened to my friend the other day, his car was working fine and then it just wouldn't start. Turns out the fuel pump crapped out.

the bridgestone dueler AT revo's also handle great in the snow as i recently learned

Yes its supposed to be in 2H by default. And you pull it down once, your in 4hi then push and pull down you'll go into neutral then just pull down more you'll go into 4lo, but DO NOT go into 4lo unless the truck is in neutral, you can really f*** your stuff up that way. Also if you put the transfer case shifter in neutral beware that even if the transmission is in park, the truck will roll, so be careful!

scanned this from my owners manual hope it helps

Maybe something in the wiring somewhere, have you checked that? I remember when my dad had the skidplate off our 94 for a bit when it rained the cruise control, signals and tach would die Oh and I saw something on hear about the mass airflow sensor, the wiring for it at the sensor can get flaky IIRC and if you wiggle it while the someone tries to keep the truck running you'll see. Its the one right on the air filter tube. Someone correct me if im wrong

My 94 hadn't been running for 3 months it was sitting out in the back yard, i go start it up, started on the first crank, and was blowing hot air within 5 minutes. nissan this was the middle of january with -45 degree weather fyi

I'll go to Canadian trash tomorrow and find out about the monroe shocks

You can't hook it up to the stock switch, you have to buy another switch from rancho for their shocks. Correct me on this one simon.

I could feel the difference even with 340.000kms, the stock shocks are tough as hell