adamzan

Pull the fuse? I think there is one. If not I'm sure you could disconnect the wire from the stereo going to it.

lmfao @ wife. I carry spare fluids and my CAA card and cell phone/charger

Well its not doing it anymore so i figured it to be the belt. I'll replace it when I do the tbelt next week, or i'll just wait till spring.

I'm sorry I made a stupid assumption, I do that from time to time.

The timing belt needs to be changed every 168,000 kilometers. I'm not really sure about the exhaust manifold recall i think it went up to 100k miles I'm not sure though. When you put the truck in 4x4 you should be able to feel it engage, and if its slippery out, get someone to watch you give it some gas (enough to spin all 4 tires) and see if the front tires spin. It depends on the model but i think most of the SE ones have an LSD rear, there would be an orange sticker on the diff if it was. They're great in the snow, I should know, im from ottawa. The adjustable suspension, if it works, great, if it doesn't and the shocks ride like crap, you can only get the replacement ones from the dealer. Or just buy aftermarket shocks and not use the switch.

Check the rear frame for rust, check the floor under the gas pedal for rust. If you don't know when the timing belt was last changed, change it anyways. Its cheap insurance. The only recall I ever heard of on the wd21's was for the exhaust manifold studs. If you drive your 5 speeds for mileage rather than constantly shifting at like 4k rpm, you'll probably see anywhere from 15-20mpg, thats what I'm getting with my auto right now. where are you located, that plays a BIG roll in the frame rust factor. The 95's seem to have trouble with the gauges in general from what i've seen here. But my 95 and 93 both have fully functional clusters. If you keep up on that maintenance it should last you a very long time with no problems.

I think i discovered what the noise was, when i was on my way to school this morning i kept smelling burning, so i pulled over and saw that the a/c belt had partially failed and some of it was wrapped around the fan shaft. I drove to the nearest gas station and borrowed a knife ( i knew i shouldn't have taken it out of the truck!) and cut the belt off. Its SO much quieter now, and i think its more peppy too.

It did it a little while ago(probably never stopped), but I didn't think it was serious and forgot about it, now that i noticed it again, im thinking it might not be so good. The only thing that i could say is strange is that once warmed up, on light acceleration the engine does accelerate consistantly, but if i give it a little more gas it works fine. I was told that for that it could be the Throttle position sensor going, but there were no codes, but i probably didn't read them right, i'm going to take them tomorrow and see. Other than that, she drives great, the engine doesn't knock, or burn a drop of oil (like i don't add any between changes, and it stays full the whole time) I know i have an exhaust leak, but that is not the sound im talking about.

Thanks, i'll check it tomorrow. I wouldn't be surprised if it was loose, with the idiot who owned it before me

Yeah thats it, and when i rev the engine it gets faster. It runs and drives fine though My friend was listening to it, and he thought it was the a/c idler pulley or the power steering pump...or one of those belts. But I have no idea. I'm really not good with mechanic trouble shooting, but if i knew what it was i could fix it. Ignore all the other...bad noises....

I have no idea what it is, but I'd REALLY appreciate anyone giving me any ideas, my friend thinks its the a/c idler pully, because it has a little bit'o'play in it but i don't know. Normally I'd find out what the problem is but I have a midterm tomorrow and can't have the pathy all apart tonight. video:

On my dads r50 the rotors are still the original oem ones and it has 125k miles on it. I'd go with the oem ones again. I know I will when it comes time to change mine on my 95

My 95 doesn't even have a block heater, and it starts fine in -30 degree weather. I use synthetic oil. My 93 has one though, although where is parked currently it can't be plugged in, but it starts fine too. The battery heater is a good idea though.

Well I can see no visible difference between them. like if you try and pull the lever back to flash someone to let them go at an intersection, the lights don't change. Unless you turn the headlights on. Some schmuck has rewired them, just like the rear lights i assume. 88 i took apart the cruise buttons just now, the contacts are nice and shiny clean. I read that the cruise brain is behind the panel on the drivers side in the back, how do i remove the panel? Also when i turn the cruise master switch on, I can hear a click, but can't tell if its coming from under the hood or the back.

Yeah they're on the steering wheel, I've tryed pushing hard on them but nothing happens. And the plugs, well one of the wires is yellow as you can see in the pic. But I have an XE and theres no switch for fogs, also The place where the fogs would go looks like this [---] instead of having a hole there. Another wierd thing, my DRL are my highbeams, and when i turn the headlights on they go to low beams and i can select them again.

Better than a gmc jimmy/blazer like my grandpas neighbour had, it was a 96 and he had the motor replaced 3 times for the drivers power window because he tapped the button and poof there goes the motor because it was a little cold out. He sold it a couple weeks ago and bought a 2008 pathfinder

couldn't be foglights, those are too high up, they're sitting on top of the rad and aren't very long What did the morons do to this poor pathy.

Ok I figured out that the wire in the back there was for my brake light. Wow, I didn't know it wasn't working untill that cop told me the other day. Thats all fixed up. Now I want to figure out why my cruise isn't working, I checked the vacuum like and it looks ok, the light on the button comes on but it just won't set. I also checked the brake switch and its fine too. Is there a relay or fuse for the cruise? Next step im going to swap modules. I also checked the connections they were tight. I snapped a pic of the area, do you see anything out of the norm? Also What are those 2 connectors in front of the radiator and behind the grille in the second pic?

don't be so hard on your truck then I try my hardest to not let it shift over 3k rpm. You'll get better mileage too.

Yeah I don't have a job either, and its hard to work and go to school at the same time. Just make sure you support the truck well, that'd really suck if it came down on you.

I know how it feels to have no cash, Im going to algonquin college in ottawa and for the first semester i had no pathy so i had to suck it up and drive a car Maybe a friend would have some?

I'd offer them 500 dollars for it, I got my 95 for 400 dollars and it needed 1500 worth of work to safety but she sure runs great.

Jackstands aren't that expensive dude, unless money is real tight. And you'll be glad you bought them too. I see you live in BC, go check out canadian tire, they usually have them. Good luck though heres a good deal: Motomaster 3-Ton Jack KitSale: $79.99 Reg: $119.99 Product #09-1055-6 3-ton jack kit is made of high-strength steel Includes one 3-ton heavy-duty service jack and one pair of 3-ton axle stands Maximum capacity of jack and axle stands: 3 tons/ 2721kg (6,000 lbs) each Dimensions: jack, 25 x 13-7/16 x 6-7/16" (63.5 x 35 x 17cm); axle stand, 8-3/16 x 7-1/8 x 11-3/16" (22 x 19 x 29cm) Weight: jack, 84 lbs. (38kg); axle stands, 14 lbs, 11 oz. (6.7kg) Assembly required Instock at kamloops crappy tire.

Check the battery cables, the positive one can corrode and break. IIRC

I honestly think that the rears get less power than the fronts on mine, as the panasonic deck is wired through the factory amps and i have infinity 5x7's all the way around and the fronts sound SO much better while the rears distort earlier. The stock speakers that were in there were different in the front and back, the fronts had a higher wattage, but they were the factory speaker.