adamzan

My friend has a 1992 MkII jetta.... And my other friend has a 99 I guess MKIV? That I had to pull out of the ditch!

my pathy has dents in the top part of the fender where it meets the hood, from people leaning on it.....

You will most likely smash them into your rocker panels

Build a VG34

My friends mom has a kia sportage, a 2006 i believe, and she hasn't had a single problem with it. Although, she does all the maintenance at the intervals, at the dealer.

Maybe he is using a 15 inch CRT running windows 95 at 800x600?

I will hit up EB games to look for this tomorrow! Yeah, I've played a few "4x4 simulation games" and only one of them has had any nissans, and they were the xterra and frontier..

Those rocks really did a number on those skids nige. I'm looking into a set myself, even if I don't wheel that much, when I do, I don't want to ruin the undercarriage.

I firmly believe that if you change the fluid as per the manual time frame, that it will be fine. The stock cooler is prone to clogging up, but my mechanic and another family friend (who is a mechanic/hydraulics engineer) say that it shouldn't clog up unless someone along the line, never changed the tranny fluid when they owned it. They also said it couldn't hurt, and recommend an external cooler AND filter if you tow a lot or run it on trails. As far as my limited experience goes, the 93 has 340,000kms on it, with the original tranny and stock cooler. Still works great. No towing or wheeling ever. The 95 however had 220k when I got it, the fluid was brown, smelled burnt, and intermittently had no reverse. Clearly not maintained like my 93. I have had it flushed twice since, and I haven't had any further problems. When I removed the rad for the tbelt change, I flushed out the cooler just to be on the safe side, it was free flowing...

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Is it just me or does anyone else cringe watching the miles on the truck go up?

I think it is only the older wd21's that used a different tranny for the 2wd version. I read somewhere that the 95's were the same...

It could be. I haven't heard of any common headlight wiring issues on these trucks. But I do know it is common for the DRL module and headlight switch to go bad... You can clean the contacts on the switch and attempt to repair the module. I think there is a write up in the how to section.

The DRL module is behind the fender on the left side of the battery, you'll see it.

I had a problem a few months ago, where my lowbeams would work fine, but when I switched to my highbeams, the drivers one wouldn't work. I just banged the light and it worked again, until the next time. Finally I got irritated and took out the bulb, it looked fine, and put it back in, no problems since... It just might not be seated properly in the socket. I recently had it do it again on the labour day weekend after I ran a trail....I think in my case the socket is messed up. So things to check are the DRL module for your first issue, then the wiring/sockets for the second also check the headlight switch. Common on older vehicles.

So I guess you're over on VwVortex a lot? For the shimmy on the highway, its either unbalanced wheels, uneven tire pressure, tension rod bushings, worn steering (tie rods, ball joints, centerlink). Check the cheap stuff first, I have the same shimmy, it's scary! You can download the factory service manual from a link on this website as well. If its low in the rear, the springs have probably sagged. You don't have to do a BL and SL at the same time... I have a friend who likes his vdubs....keeps them mint.

You could adjust the tbars if they have sagged, also check the sway bar end links and tension rod bushings. Does it also shimmy a little bit on the highway? Bigger truck? Does that mean you're going to do that to the pathfinder or actually buy a bigger truck Welcome to the board

There is one for the r50 pathfinder its just really hard to find. Haynes manuals kind of suck, good when you're in a jam. But the FSM is the best way to go. There is a link here.

B, I don't have a shift kit but mine shifts just like yours does, until it is warmed up. Apparantly this is a fluid issue. And I find if I put my foot into it, it shifts like a hot knife through butter.

There is only one O2 sensor on the wd21s and it is pre-cat right after the Y and yes unplugging it will cause your CEL to go on and it will hurt your gas mileage.

It is a simple nut and bolt job guy

If you don't wheel it much, I would replace those swaybar end links. I paid 30 dollars for the front ones from partsource, which is like autozone, with a lifetime warranty.

I was searching around and found a thread by chriskaw I think who reported that his clunking went away with new rear control arm bushings. I only have one rear swaybar link connected, as the other one got ripped off at adventure weekend. The one that is still on there is worn. And the sway bar as a little play in it too. I've replaced the front swaybar links, it helped a bit but not that much. I really hope my tension rod things aren't wallowed out Kitt, I thought that you had 4 new shocks put in?

Hell yeah I wish I had a garage to work in! At my dads my stepmom didn't want her corvette to get wet so I did the brakes in the rain. I smeared some wheel bearing grease on the rim hehehe