adamzan

This is true. My dad's wifes 86 corvette needs this done EVERY year. And new seals ever 2 years. That's b/c she hardly drives the thing, though. But back on topic, I have the same issue. I find if you stick it in and out a couple times (wiping it off in between), that I can get a good enough reading.

I never understood that either, the wd21 pathfinders, have a sweet one that has a billion positions, my fathers 2000 r50 has the same crappy lever that barely moves it anyways. Another thing I never understood about the r50s either, the wd21s have a button in the cab to pop it up. Also I "think" the key less for it could open it too, I may be wrong though. As for a reliability comparison, my grandfathers neighbor, had a 96 blazer, same thing, and my father had a 93 pathfinder and then the 2000. Steve (the neighbor) said he put over 10 grand into his blazer, saying that almost every major component had been replaced, some things twice (the a/c). He bought it brand new too. He ended up selling it for 500 bucks last year with 160,000kms and not a spot of rust...And bought a 2008 pathy . My father on the other hand, paid 10 grand for the 93 pathy, and put only tires, oil, gas, and brakes into it. And he gave it to me at 300,000kms. The r50 he bought 3 years ago, and the only problem we've had with it was the fuel filler tube leaked, but turns out it was a recall anyways. Oh and the rear shocks wore out. (Whatever, a set of Monroe's from Canadian tire fixed that, he doesn't wheel) Very well written comparison

Ok, that one is pretty expensive and since I'm in school (not working) I need to get this fixed as economical as possible. Since I don't really wheel would it be ok to just buy the 50 dollar spicer one, to get me through the winter, or if it can wait till spring when I start work again, that would be good too. But since you're not here you can't really tell anyways (how worn it is). Oh and can someone tell what the difference between a drag link and a center link is? On rock auto they have both listed, but the parts look the exact same in the picture. Just a different name I guess? The drag link is ac delco and the CL's are moog and spicer.

It's the CL...Damn that is going to set me back.

My old brake pads were like that my new raybestos ones are clipped.

Okay. Then I guess a new center link or tie rods are in order as well. Will have to check out which is the culprit there. Is it still safe to drive like that? I've been driving it 45km to school 2 or 3 days a week on the highway

How would I check the drive shaft? Would I have to get someone to do that for me? I gave a tug on the lower trailing arms and there was a bit, not a lot but a bit of movement. I don't know how much play there is supposed to be though....The truck was parked on the street not jacked up or anything... I checked the idler arm like you said Simon, and there was no movement, the only place I saw movement was between the center link and tie rod. Hopefully its supposed to be like that.

I had the same problem, with the stupid shims, on my passenger side, it would click like that every time I used the brakes.

Well I have changed the tension rod bushings, they were a little more than "worn", and I've found the front end is a lot tighter, and I don't notice the lack of rear sway bar. I would take it off, but, since I do a lot of highway driving my parents told me not to... I have 4 new rear control arm bushings, that I got from lgranch on here, I just need to put them in. And then hunt down another set for the other 2 arms. Looks like a PITA to get the control arms off...

Thanks a lot. I guess If can do the tension bushings, I can probably tackle this.

Alright that's cool I will check the Idler arm when I get home from class tomorrow. Are the bushings hard to change? I know the rears are press fits. I'll either have to have a shop do that, or remove them, and take it to the place beside my dads office that has a machine shop they let me use. I plan on driving the truck to Florida this spring break, so she has to be good to go!

Ok I finished doing the tension/compression/strut rod/whatever more possible names it could have bushings. It doesn't sway at all anymore, but it still shimmys and shudders...I don't think it's wheel balancing, because it does it all speeds. It's like it's feeling bumps that aren't even there. It does this on the smoothest of roads (read: recently paved). I can feel it in the steering wheel on the highway, and I find it's "acceptable" only if I'm going like 130kmh. Which I only did once, and I'm not taking it on highways anymore because of this... I'm reaching the end of my patience, and wallet! I just want my pathy to drive normal again My grandfather suggested idler arm, but I dunno. Oh and just to add, the wheel bearings are good, I checked the rear end, I know the rear control arm bushings are leaving me (moves sideways in the rear on bumps) but the drive shaft is tight. I am starting to question the quality of my steering, I think it's all original. But with about 158,000 miles (256,000kms) I thought and was told that it was o.k.

Simon and I have this stuff in our trucks, seems to do the job well. http://www.redtek.com/products_refr.html# It's the 12a

FWIW I'm pretty sure this is what my mechanic used on mine, and I haven't had any problems since I had it done over two months ago. Time will tell though. He said if I ever have any problems just bring it back

That would be cool. I don't know how the wd21 steering would handle that though...

Does this also apply to the r50 5 speed?

I had 2 broken studs on the passenger side, and 3 "stripped" ones on the drivers side (mechanic said someone previously tried to tighten them ) I finally got annoyed with it and inspected, and discovered that the passenger side would shut up for the most part when it warmed, but the drivers side was leaky as hell all the time.

Thats funny, as I find the ones on my friends 2000 neon to be pretty sweet. Each nozzle shoots out 3 streams. But my pathy ones seem to work good. Better than the r50 ones, on the highway, the stream gets sprayed to either side hahah

Sorry, I wasn't clear. It is a reliable car, nothing has really broken on it, mechanically. But the interior quality is horrible, the glove box latch is broken, the window knobs keep falling off, and a bunch of other random stuff lol. But he is looking at a 95 se pathy right now with 110,000kms on the clock for 2000... Looks mint. Good luck kittamaru. Subaru's are awesome.

My moms boyfriend has a 98 cavalier and he just rolled over 340,000kms with no problems. But it's a base model 5 speed. Still a piece of junk quality wise though lol

There should be a little leather-ish cover right beside the tire, pull that off, thats where my jack is.

Isn't there a fuse?

Can the "anti-theft" system be disabled or removed? Like, its a cavalier, not like their highly sought after....

Looks good.

31's came with all of the SE pathy's