adamzan

You can use the auto trans radiator on the manual. I did that on mine as all the aftermarkets are the same (with the trans cooler in the bottom).

Yes it would be a dealer thing, but they are dirt cheap. At least they used to be.

When I brought my wd21 in I told them to change the oil at the same time. So I came out with new seatbelts, fresh oil and OEM filter for $40. I felt like at least giving them some business made them not treat me like some leech lol.

If you're replacing any hoses, the bypass hose is the one to do. It can be done afterwards but is a pain to get to. If the rad hoses are in good shape you can probably leave them. I've never replaced the key on any of mine, but that's not saying I've done things right either. The cam and crank seals have bit me in the ass like Slartibartfast as well. My crank seal started leaking 3 months after the job and of course before a long weekend road trip was to take place lol. The parts are pretty cheap on rock auto, so if you can stretch it I would just do it all. @Mr_Reverse aren't the keyways only an issue on the earlier VG's? I've never had a problem with any of mine, but they are all 94 and up. I do recall several people having issues with the (basically square tooth belt time frame) versions. I'm pretty sure they changed the design at one point. The VG33 style is definitely different.

I have used aftermarket belts without any problems. But the OEM ones have perfect alignment marks and are only a few dollars more.

I've always used 5w30 in mine. 10w30 is not really recommended for anything anymore. 5w30 gives the same high temp protection and better cold flow rate. Sometimes I have ran 0w40 in the truck but only when I had some left over from my VW. It started up in -30C like it was summer time!

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Pathfinder/1995/ec.pdf

By will not crank do you mean the engine does not turn over at all? Usually if it won't start hot it could indicate poor fuel pressure if is still turning over. Have you tested the pressure with a gauge? You can rent them at most auto parts stores.

Nice job!

I've still yet to see a failed hem nissan FPR on these trucks. A lot of people change them, but there is no need at all. And in some cases it can be detrimental lol.

The ones in the wd21 are perfect in mine somehow. But there is gobs of oil and grease in that spot. The benefit of living its entire life before me at quick lube places I guess. They don't seem to do that for you anymore though lol. Sadly the Xterra has the same issue, the pin is seized but at least the hinge looks replaceable as an assembly. I had an issue where it would cause the truck to stumble on take off, and the rpms would hang at like 1.5-2k even when warm. When it was cold it was all over the place. Replacing the TPS with another (off a parts truck) resolved the issue. Then comes the problem of setting it correctly lol. I opted to swap the whole throttle body off my parts truck so it was already set in the right spot.

Thanks for posting this info. I've never been able to get one out of the tcase in one piece here in Ontario. Too much corrision.

I'm not sure, but why chance it?

No problem! Been through it myself on my 1994. I'm now parting it out but I'm in Ontario so that doesn't help you much. It has an 02 Xterra trans in it.

1988-2000 Pathfinder with VG30 or Vg33E, 1988-1997 Hardbody with the VG30E, 1998-2004 Frontier with the VG33E or 2000-2004 Xterra with the VG33E or ER will all bolt in.

You mean like heater hose? As long as it is braided inside like the hem hose, and not just generic hose it should be fine. Any pics of the head gaskets? Were they actually leaking? It is very uncommon on this engine.

If you set it to TDC, align the pulley so the first mark is aligned with the pointer on the timing cover.

Take one of the shorter ones out and match it up with a longer one of the same thread pitch. Also do not remove all the bolts on the balancer... though I see you've already done that lol. It can go back on 6 different ways, and make it really hard to set the ignition timing.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308

You have to remove the little metal wire clips that hold them in place. Gently with a small pick you can pull them off. Careful as the plastic will be brittle.

If it gets cold where you live, keep the stock cooler routed in line with the external trans cooler. I had issues with it not keeping the TC locked when it was 20 below. I've never had the light come on in the 15 years of wd21 ownership either. I did the flush Slartibartfast did many times, it works well, just secure the hoses so they don't splash fluid all over. Though I am glad to have a manual transmission version now.

That looks like it's from the water pump if it is a VG33E. What motor is in yours?

Made sure it still runs. And it does, flawlessly as always.

The only time I don't find the heater adequate is when it dips below -30C around here. When that happens I'd just leave in on recirc and it works well enough. But yeah my Golf has much better heat. The o2 replacement gave me an extra 2-4 mpg depending on my driving style. Either the NTK or OE Style Bosch will work fine. The o2 can cause misfires as well. Had that happen years ago on my old one. I've never seen worse than 15 mpg in mine. Maybe in 100% city driving but that makes sense as idling just pisses gas away. Also the 192F t-stat was not available before when I was doing all the work on mine. That's an aftermarket part, the OEM ones were only ever 170F or 180F. I don't see how the 192F could hurt anything though.