adamzan

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,engine,cylinder+head+bolt,5308

You have to remove the little metal wire clips that hold them in place. Gently with a small pick you can pull them off. Careful as the plastic will be brittle.

If it gets cold where you live, keep the stock cooler routed in line with the external trans cooler. I had issues with it not keeping the TC locked when it was 20 below. I've never had the light come on in the 15 years of wd21 ownership either. I did the flush Slartibartfast did many times, it works well, just secure the hoses so they don't splash fluid all over. Though I am glad to have a manual transmission version now.

That looks like it's from the water pump if it is a VG33E. What motor is in yours?

Made sure it still runs. And it does, flawlessly as always.

The only time I don't find the heater adequate is when it dips below -30C around here. When that happens I'd just leave in on recirc and it works well enough. But yeah my Golf has much better heat. The o2 replacement gave me an extra 2-4 mpg depending on my driving style. Either the NTK or OE Style Bosch will work fine. The o2 can cause misfires as well. Had that happen years ago on my old one. I've never seen worse than 15 mpg in mine. Maybe in 100% city driving but that makes sense as idling just pisses gas away. Also the 192F t-stat was not available before when I was doing all the work on mine. That's an aftermarket part, the OEM ones were only ever 170F or 180F. I don't see how the 192F could hurt anything though.

Nice work on the rust repair. My old pathy I just welded in patches. Luckily my current one is clean.

Has the o2 sensor been touched? If it looks old or original just replace it. Made a big difference on my 95. My temp never goes above 1/3 on the gauge. I run a Nissan T-stat but they do run kinda cool. You can also change to a 180F one if you want.

33x10.5 is still made by BFG. I just bought a set of KO2's for my 95 last summer. And I checked the KM3 which I want for my Xterra are available in that size. It really is the perfect 33 for our vehicles. Minimal power loss compared to 12.5 wide tires.

You can do 33x10.5x15 on stock height. Provided you're using the oem "lego" wheels. But anything wider or different wheels you need to lift and possibly trim.

There should be little plastic round "stick" things that go on each end of the water pump. I never had a need to put any permatex on there. But I do always put a skim coat on the gasket. Holds it still for install, and prevents any leaks from the normally crummy gaskets they ship with things these days. Never once had a leak that way.

Since the transmission cooler is in the radiator the tranny should be running at close to the coolant temp. So when the engine is up to 170-180F I would check the fluid then.

Drive by wire with a manual trans is horrible as well. My 04 golf has that. My Xterra SC has a similar issue but not exactly the same, it is cable driven, but the throttle plate has a much more aggressive opening (to make it feel even faster, I guess). So in 4L on the trail it lunges forward with the smallest application of the throttle. Something I've just had to get used to/live with.

Nah, it's a survivor and collectors are willing to pay... All the cheap ***** on the facebook page make me laugh. It's almost 30 years old. They're classics now.

It depends on how rusty it is. Mine took a whole weekend, though that was my first time doing that sort of thing. I had help with a few friends. That was years ago, but did one last summer on my friends Xterra in 1 day.

I have the Hardbody ARB on mine with the 3" BL. Yes we had to mod the bumper to fit, but it wasn't that hard. Anyone who can weld can do it.

I noticed the last few times I started the truck, fuel would start dripping from the back, to the right of the fuel tank. The lines all look good, and it seems to stop after 5-10 minutes of running which is even more odd. I'm going to assume it is something to do with the sending unit or the rubber hoses up top. Yay!

Try and find a used VG30 from a JDM importer place. I bought one for $500 and it had less than 50,000km on it. Runs like a brand new truck. (Mine didn't have the same issue, the previous owner drove it with no coolant lol).

There's no way the transmission cooler would cause the engine to overheat. There is a huge amount of surface area in the radiator and the trans cooler is just a small tube sitting in the bottom tank. If the engine is overheating at low speeds I would investigate the fan clutch.

Exactly. My old 94 pathy had it on the lugs from the previous owner. It took me forever to get rid of it all.

I've never used anti seize on things like lugs or spark plugs. I just clean the threads and maybe a couple of drops of ATF so things spin smoothly... Never an issue in 14 years of pathy ownership.

If it is this stuff, it is very good. https://www.amazon.ca/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=asc_df_B0018PSASU/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293019627565&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1965653352532573737&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000662&hvtargid=pla-571820984777&psc=1 Those rotors are toast and the pads are wearing like that because of the ridges in the rotors. Replace rotors and pads.

Yeah, 2004 X would be the last one.

I honestly wouldn't touch it. I've never in the 14+ years of owning and driving wd21s had an EGR issue. I'd focus your time on mods that will improve the off-road prowess

So in metric grade 8.8 is equivalent to standard grade 5. 10.9 in metric is standard grade 8. If the nut held the torque it is probably okay. But just something to be aware of and a lot of people get confused.