adamzan

And if you're going to weld where your rear seats are, try your best to cover the interior.

I also find mine shifts quicker too with it on. Leave it on auto unless you like wasting gas or are hauling a big trailer.

I'm going to say I would probably kill for one of these.

Try tightening the fuel hose clamps under the hood.

Also you will get crap mileage if you use ethanol gas. That stuff is horrible.

You can get those 110V mig/fluxcore welders at home depot, princess auto, lowes, etc... They aren't too expensive but if money is tight maybe you can borrow one?

I'm driving a 14 year old suv, with regular tranny fluid that should probably be changed, synthetic oil, and I get better mileage than you . Running 91 in the vg is pointless. My dad does it in his r50, I see no point, he gets worse mileage than I do. I do put 89 in when I take it on a trip and it seems to be good with that.

I'm sure that you can use a flux core welder for this job. I know lots of people who have. A torch? for body? Maybe if you want to burn the rust off

What I did was cut out all the rust, it wasn't near the seat belt supports or the seat supports. Then my grandfather formed the metal and we silicone sealed between the two so it wouldn't leak, then riveted it in. After that I sprayed a crap load of black asphalt undercoating spray. It still looks perfect after this winter.

A week after I got my 95 the reverse became intermittent. I had it flushed, and it helped a lot. It still doesn't work sometimes, so I am going to have it flushed again. I have taken several 400km+ trips in it with no issues. It still doesn't engage quick like my other ones, but I guess it is still pretty dirty as my fluid was brown when i got the truck.

Gotta love how those are the original factory rubbers from stephs 60k truck.

Be careful tightening though. When I had mine done, the mechanic said that someone in the past had stripped 3 on the drivers side and 2 were broken on the passenger side. I would just replace them all if it is the cause and be done with it.

Put that 400 dollars toward finding that SOB and .... well you know

The top flange looks a little bent to me, anyone else see that, near the hole? If you want a really cheap fix, you can just use exhaust paste, but it won't last unless you put it on perfectly.

Well knowing jeep owners, and from the video's we've seen on you tube....

The only thing I hate about my XE were the seats. They weren't THAT bad but I got some SE ones in now. I wouldn't go back. It's got power everything and cruise that don't work, but NO carrier, sunroof, LSD or fog lights. It does have a roof rack though and the mirrors are power and heated. Whoever had mine must have lived in the city. I know the PO did. I think most wd21s have a rear wiper and tilt wheel. I wouldn't want to steer one of these without PS!

when my brakes were pulling to the right it turned out to be the rear drivers side wheel cylinder.

My friends gmc sierra turns worse than my pathy, again it is a pickup. And an suv with a mushy suspension like the exploders and blazers will just make it handle like crap. Kingman, I bet your shocks and swaybar parts are all original, replace them, you'll see how well these trucks can handle. I can take a 40kmh on ramp at 65kmh and not even feel any body roll. And GG. I didn't know you could adjust the steering stops. I'm going to try that sometime.

I think you also need to swap the Parking brake cable

Those guys were so biased. Not to say I am not. But 5 years down the road lets see which one has had more repairs? Man those blazers were fugly!

to the left of the oil filter you should see something sticking out of the block, that is the oil pressure sensor. It goes in there. That looks like it's been messed with before.

I got one of those hide a key things but none of my pathy keys will fit in it. The key was too long IIRC

It does it all the time. The PO told me that it once locked itself with his kid in the truck. On that rig, none of the key locks work for some reason. He said to always keep fresh batteries in the fob. I've heard that the lock actuator can mess up on these trucks. My DD pathy hasn't given me any issues, thank god. Maybe temporarily keep the fob and key separate so you can at least unlock them until you get it fixed?

My recently purchased 95 has a viper remote start/alarm and every time you start the truck, once the engine fires up, the doors lock, and once you turn it off, the doors unlock. The PO warned me that they do that. Kind of pisses me off too.

I bet they touched the sensor while removing the oil filter. It's right beside the filter.