adamzan

The rear axle vents to the cross member that the shocks connect to FYI.

mig is what you want to use for this job. IIRC

I usually get over 20 on the highway. This is with around 172k miles, a clean K&N drop in, fully leak free exhaust, 31x10.5 tires (usually), and going around 105-110km/h. My cruise doesn't even work right now (steering wheel switch is messed up). My best was 23, that is usually when I'm going on a trip that will use most of the tank on the way there. I try to bring my own food so I only have to stop for the washroom and tim hortons. By the way you can get better mileage if you go down steep hills really fast, then just coast.

Don't drive it too much with the shaking. I learned this one the hard way. My truck drove smooth and straight when I first got it, then a tire went out of round and couldn't be balanced, but I didn't have any money to replace them. So I drove like that for a month until I got a free set. Then all was well, until about September and it started shaking real bad. I had the CL and tie rods changed, didn't help at all. Had the tires rebalanced in Kitchener, helped a little. Then i found out my drivers side ball joint (lower) was about to fall apart. Now I just need an upper and all should be well again. Point is it can damage other components. At least I should be good to go with the front end for a while. Good luck Jay.

I'm pretty sure the brake and fuel lines are on the passenger side. I used 1/8th inch plate on my frame.

The only ones that look decent are 87pathy's.

I have it in my 95. It is for noise reduction and so its all smooth under the carpet. It's starting to crumble On my truck as well. I keep finding pieces of it on the floor after I have passengers. Jerks probably keep kicking at it.

The smell bothers you that much?

I've towed a few loads with the r50 (3.3L 5 speed version) and it seems to handle it pretty well. I'm sure the load was over 3000lbs and the factory brakes handled it fine. Then again the rotors and drums are bigger than the wd21's. It was so smooth you couldn't even feel the trailer and it barely used any gas.

AC delco plugs? These motors like NGK's.

How does it run though? When you drove it did it have the usual power or less? If the timing was off, you would have less power, and I believe if its off by 3 or more teeth the valves and pistons start playing tag.

Yeah wtf. Even if you don't change it, its not like its going to break EXACTLY when it's due. It's just cheap insurance. If it happened to break before the interval, well then the manufacturer would be to blame.

Here you go Beastpath http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...rent=engine.flv Please ignore my EGR leak lol. Thank god for remote start. Also do you still have those thin metal manifold covers on? Mine makes a similar rattling noise at the warmed up idle.

To me that almost sounds like something is loose. I can't say valves because I've never heard valves hitting pistons before. I'll go record a vid of mine so you can hear what it should sound like.

I don't think it was too tight. I had never messed with anything on the truck at that point. It would make a crap load of noise before it warmed up as well. Like a constant squawking...Sounded like the belt tensioner. I had no idea what it was at the time and I had an exam the next day. Thought it was the timing belt, but it wasn't. Oh ya, the noise is the tock tock sound after I revved it. Does it sound like something else is wrong too?

I agree. And I've been told and passed this on many times, it's not the getting going part you gotta worry about, its the STOPPING! IIRC the manual states trailer brakes are reccomended for anything over 2000lbs.

I bought a tire carrier kit and it was missing pieces that they said came with it in their ad. They updated the ad AFTER I sent them an email. I will probably not buy from them ever again. PS It took them almost a month to send the damn thing to me. Shipping was slow as well. I would call them and start asking questions.

replied to your PM

did it sound like this? http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...nt=MVI_0363.flv

Check the sway bar end links and the bushings where the sway bar mounts to the axle. I'm not sure about r50's but I noticed on my wd21 that they do help keep everything nice and tight back there. It should be a similar setup on yours.

I was told by my dealer "we can get you anything you want for your truck, but it's going to cost you".

That symbol means the part should be greased, or has a grease nipple.

Or if the springs let go in the drums.

Mine makes that first noise too. I can not figure out what it is. I have changed the shocks, rear control arm bushings, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, and made sure everything else under there is TIGHT. It is still making noise. I think it may be the rear hatch. I cannot figure out how to shut it up though.

I've heard my truck with just a straight pipe, it sounds like sh!t