adamzan

35? Man that must be a stiff ride on the road. The factory rating is 26 and that's what I ran in the winter because of the pot holes and lack of traction.

B is right. DO NOT TRY TO PRY OUT THE GLASS. You will most likely break it. Are you sure it's the glass portion or the whole casing? If it's just the glass you may be able to pop it back in place but be very careful. The way it sits in there is like this. There are two threaded plastic bolt like things that are integrated into the glass portion. They are used to move the glass with that little joystick thing in the cab. Then there is a socket that it fits onto in the middle. Maybe it popped off?

For the rear wiper, if the fuse is not blown, most likely it is seized. Do what nige said and should free up if you "help" it along. Sometimes if the motor is gone it will keep popping fuses. Is the wiper sitting in it's resting place? Or is it stuck partway up the window somewhere? Also don't force it too much or else you will strip the plastic gear inside, the worm gear on the motor is made of metal I believe.

I run my 31's at 30. When I went on the trail I dropped them to 20.

I'm not sure if your 97 is the same as my 95, but the a/c and fan belt are separate. I have had my a/c belt break once, and the fan still spun fine. In fact I drove it like that for 2 months since it happened in the winter and I didn't need the a/c.

Yes LE was introduced in '94.

I think my dads r50 does this too. It kinda sounds like a small air compressor running. Also will click really loud when you turn it off sometime. The a/c is still nice and cold though...

That is called the torque converter locking up. It will still do it when your not in OD by the way, it's just not as noticeable.

My ground strap is disconnected too, it doesn't seem to be affecting anything. I plan to fix it someday... The shop that did my studs left the passenger heat shield off because where it bolts on was rotted ( i didn't really care). The driver side one is still on though. I haven't noticed any heat differences, other than I now have to be VERY careful when changing the oil lol.

I managed to luck out and get an actual nissan one, not an aftermarket. But this was at Canadian auto parts suppliers.

It is not uncommon for a reman alternator to be bad out of the box.

I would take it to the dealer and have them do it. Screw doing it yourself when someone messed up and should pay for it.

Time to grab a bat and beat said tow truck drive until a new pathy arrives in your driveway.

Yeah I know, I drove for like 70 kilometers on the gas light because no places were open on my way home from brantford at 3:30 in the morning. I filled the tank the next day and it took 77 liters out of 80

Bad ball joints can cause a clunk.

It can also go into limp mode if you were spinning the tires excessively, but judging from where you were, unless you were doing peelouts, that didn't cause it. If the fluid smells burnt change it as soon as possible so things don't start getting cooked. Mine was brown when I got mine and it took 2 flushes to get it back to normal

It's a 21.1 gallon or 80 litre tank. Read your manual.

It could also be those brake dust shields. Mine make a noise, but not all the time. Strange.

I thought it sounded like absolute sh!t at the time. I have had the whole system replaced with a walker unit. From the front to the back she's all shiny, and most importantly, quiet.

I still need the window seal off the 94. Sorry to thread jack

So I dropped the pathy off at a mechanic today to get a diagnostic. These guys are the guys I go to when our usual guy is busy. Here is what they found: I figure since the moog center link is 6 months old I can get it replaced for free, same with the one inner tie rod. What garbage. Next time I am going to buy a hoohaa CL. The bearings I am going to try and repack and re torque. The mechanic showed me the play in everything. He said if I want to save some money, that I can take the old tie rods off but leave them in the sleeve, and match the threads on the new stuff, and then have it aligned. So I guess I will have to buy an outer tie rod, upper ball joint, and a tie rod adjusting sleeve. Maybe even wheel bearings. Are those hard? I am trying to save the most I can here while still getting my truck back to a nice smooth ride, that it hasn't had since September. Opinions?

Nice score. So will I be able to see this thing when I bring your stuff over?

You can get a big fine here if you get caught with no cat. Damn environmentalists.

here is mine with no cat http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj74/ad...nt=MVI_0721.flv

I've driven mine with a straight pipe and factory muffler, it wasn't that different. Cops will notice you more as well. Don't do it. Stay legal and get a high flow cat.