adamzan

Check the throttle cable

You can also burn the carbon off with a torch.

Black smoke is too much fuel in the mix.

I drove down to brantford a month ago, doing 120 km/h (75mph) most of the way and got just a hair under 23mpg. I had my 31's inflated to 35 psi, K&N freshly cleaned and oiled (properly), 4.6 gears, and a steady foot. Checked the oil before I left and before I left for home, it was the same. Driving around town I try to make it shift under 2800 rpm (autotragic) and drive the speed limit. I usually can get 18 around town. With my 235/75/15 tires my rpms were at 3000 at 120km/h but with the 31's its more like 2700. I'm pretty sure I get better mileage with my 31's than with my oem size

I heard having no tailpipe means all the hot air will be blowing on the diff. They have a pre cat and a cat stock. I removed those and put a regular one on. But if yours isn't plugged or rusted out leave it alone.

I paid 170 after core for a rebuilt Nissan one. I like things with more than a 90 day warranty. (mine is 2 years). I would never buy a JY wear item unless it was for a spare.

You need to prime the filter by turning your key off and on, so the fuel pump will pressurize the system.

I find if you pull the seat belt all the way out while your wearing it, then let go. You can't pull it out anymore (locks you in place). But I do know that nissan's have lifetime warranty on their seat belts. So a dealer should look at it for free if you are concerned. They told me to come in anytime with mine.

Ripped into it tonight. This thing seems like it was installed like a pro. Going to contact the PO and see if he has the manual for it, in case it's thinking it's being stolen. Would rather not hack it up if I don't have to. Some of the wires for it under the hood are corroded and cracked. Gotta find my multimeter as well. Will let you know what I find.

Alright so I went over to start my somewhat recently acquired 95 to move it out of the guys barn because I am taking it to my Grandmothers house. I go to start it, and it won't start, just click, every time I turn the key. So I figured either the battery or the starter is done right? Well I tried boosting it with mine, no go. Banged on the starter with a hammer, no go. The PO comes and tells me that sometimes this happened, but it would start with the REMOTE STARTER ! So now that I know the starter and battery are working I fire it up with the remote and it works great. Now being the kinda guy who can't leave something alone, I wanted to try and figure out what is going on. It fired up last time I was there with the key, and the click comes from under the hood so I know the ignition switch is good. It has a viper alarm/key less/hatch glass opener/remote starter/dishwasher unit installed. The date on it is circa 1997 or something.... Has this happened to any of you guys before?

Check the boot under the 4wd shifter. I bet its full of holes. It will let hot air flowing around the trans into the truck.

The holes on mine were worn too I just put the new bushings and sleeves on and tightened them down really well. But the rods them selves were ok.

That is a great idea. If you don't want to buy theirs you could probably make your own. I really want one!

X2 Mine only goes off after I reverse a little.

It's a bitch to patch the top and bottom

In my truck right now I have some washer fluid, a power inverter, ATF fluid, and booster cables. Oh and a screwdriver in the glovebox. I rarely wheel and I'm always in the city.... I used to carry a socket set but when I was frequently crossing the bored i was told to remove it because it could be considered a weapon.

My 75 amp mig can blow through a pathfinder frame in the non thin area on setting 3.... These frames aren't thick to begin with. They are a high carbon steel I believe, thinner but stronger. Not absolutely sure on that though.

The rear axle vents to the cross member that the shocks connect to FYI.

mig is what you want to use for this job. IIRC

I usually get over 20 on the highway. This is with around 172k miles, a clean K&N drop in, fully leak free exhaust, 31x10.5 tires (usually), and going around 105-110km/h. My cruise doesn't even work right now (steering wheel switch is messed up). My best was 23, that is usually when I'm going on a trip that will use most of the tank on the way there. I try to bring my own food so I only have to stop for the washroom and tim hortons. By the way you can get better mileage if you go down steep hills really fast, then just coast.

Don't drive it too much with the shaking. I learned this one the hard way. My truck drove smooth and straight when I first got it, then a tire went out of round and couldn't be balanced, but I didn't have any money to replace them. So I drove like that for a month until I got a free set. Then all was well, until about September and it started shaking real bad. I had the CL and tie rods changed, didn't help at all. Had the tires rebalanced in Kitchener, helped a little. Then i found out my drivers side ball joint (lower) was about to fall apart. Now I just need an upper and all should be well again. Point is it can damage other components. At least I should be good to go with the front end for a while. Good luck Jay.

I'm pretty sure the brake and fuel lines are on the passenger side. I used 1/8th inch plate on my frame.

The only ones that look decent are 87pathy's.

I have it in my 95. It is for noise reduction and so its all smooth under the carpet. It's starting to crumble On my truck as well. I keep finding pieces of it on the floor after I have passengers. Jerks probably keep kicking at it.

The smell bothers you that much?