adamzan

Did you use the recovery console or w/e its called when it asked for the password? If you did you should just hit enter if there is no password. That is how I've always done it.

All 3 of mine had pre-cats when I got them. I got a whole new exhaust on the gray 95 which included a new cat and there was only one this time. Haven't had it through emissions since I got it (the truck, near the end of the year) but we will see next year. Though I noticed on the emissions test report for my dads r50 that here they tightened up the emissions requirements.

The nissan ATF is the best, but any dexron III will work. I'm using the motomaster ATF from canadian tire... It works...

I don't know if you can get the rods anywhere other than the dealer but don't get them at a junkyard. They are likely to be just as worn as yours was before it broke. You can get the bushings from www.rockauto.com or any parts store.

So there was something wrong with it, and you didn't tell us before we went on the trip??? BAD BRANDON!!!

Throw it in the parts bin and buy something else (maybe groceries? Random @!*% at walmart?) while you are there, they will probably just let you go through if its under 50 bucks worth of stuff. I go through the border to get parts frequently and usually they don't even charge me duty even if I don't buy anything! Maybe I just get lucky though.

When I brought my pathy into the dealer they were all shocked with the kilometers but told me it had many more left in it.

So that is what your spelling is like without using firefox's spell check first.

If you restart the truck and it cures it, that sounds electrical.

That is the same one home hardware cut me and it broke in 2 months. I'm looking for oem nissan key blanks. You'd think they could order something like that. I'm one of those people who likes everything to be original lol.

Wiggle the wire on your MAF sensor. I'm willing to bet that's it. Removing that pipe shouldn't have done that.

You don't have to touch the torsion bars when doing the lower ball joints. Just remove the auto hub and snap ring so you can maneuver the CV around to get the BJ out. It helps to have a second person to lift the wheel hub.

Can you actually see that it's bent? Or are they just refering to how it twists when it's worn out?

Maybe whatever it was holding broke off.

Gonna try bleeding the brakes, cleaning the slide pins again, and check my calipers and drum adjustment again this weekend. If that doesn't do it I'll have to look into the MC or the booster. It veers to the right when braking...turns the wheel on you! I replaced the brakes last year and I bet that one side is worn down to nothing already. Btw I tried pulling the ABS fuse for my drive home, and there was no difference. At least that is ruled out.

B you can adjust the steering box to tighten it up. I might have to do this to mine in the near future as well.

When you go to the dealer to get a key made do they make you a nissan key or some crappy universal one? I'm picky and keep breaking the cheap copies.

Wow, you must really love your truck, maxwell.

X2 The proper idle speed is around 750 I believe, in park or neutral.

I think it's the prewiring for your map lights. Magregor had the same on his truck. There is another length of wire that goes along the edge to the mirror if you had the map lights.

No they don't all have discs. Magregors old 95XE and our parts 95XE both had an lsd diff with drum brakes. Though mine is an open diff with drums... fail.

Thanks for the suggestions. Derek, when the wheel cylinder got changed we crimped the rubber line going to the rear end and only bled the new WC. I don't know if that was the wrong way or not! Nismojunky is here right now and he is gonna take it for a spin tomorrow and see what is up. I will also pull the abs fuse. Another Q, are the rear drums supposed to self adjust? And if so is it by hitting the brakes in reverse or by using the handbrake?

Yes check this out. It was the same on my truck as well.

Ok I had a leak somewhere when I first got this truck, and simon was right about it being the wheel cylinder. I had a shop replace it and the brakes were good again. I changed the rotors and pads last september because the rotors had a lot of uneven pad deposits or were warped. In may magregor fixed my frame and showed me hot to change the other rear wheel cylinder plus the rear shoes and springs. So I've got a "new" brake system. Right? It doesn't feel like it. I cleaned and lubed the slide pins as per the how-to, they were in great shape but I did it anyways. I had been noticing before the rear shoes were changed that the pedal had to be pushed really hard to stop the truck. This was different from when I had the shop do the wheel cylinder as they were nice back then. So basically right now my pedal goes down about 1/2 way and hits a kinda hard spot. I'm still losing fluid too! Not much but its about 1/4 inch below the MAX line yet I filled it just before labor day weekend. Any ideas? I'm hoping its nothing expensive. I don't see any leaks at the calipers and I checked the brake lines on the frame and rear end, they are nice and solid. I don't have much money (what student does) and it is my only mode of transport without borrowing another car. I know I shouldn't be expecting rear disk like performance but even my friends who've driven it have commented about how much the brakes SUCK! TIA guys.

Already had this on dads truck....Fuel was pouring out AS he drove it to the dealership....