adamzan

Did they ever make them for the wd21s, Tyler? I thought I saw them somewhere.

That is overkill IMO.

Front shocks it doesn't matter but for more flex and to reduce the chance of topping out you should get some extended length ones. Rancho, bilstein, skyjacker, trailmaster, pro comp and some others make them.

Holy fskc!! That is brighter than my highbeams and hella 500s combined! So does the HID stay on while the high beams halogens come on? Looks like it from your pic.

I would just change it, its only like 20 bucks and easier than cleaning it. Mine was ok looking but I had already bought the new one so I dropped it in.

Your dealer guy is an idiot. Of course there is a filter. You can buy them at like any parts store. I'm pretty sure you can get them from Nissan too. They are all the same from 88-95

Yeah but it shouldn't stumble like that on start up. I'll take a video of mine today when I go to leave.

I have had mine on for about 40,000kms and still haven't changed it . I need to get another one but they are hard to find.

Yeah he is. In his CAI pics you can see part of his HID kit.

Did you make sure you got the right injector. They are color coded with little dots. If you don't get the right one it won't work right. If it is the right one it could be defective.

I have the AC ones and had no issues getting it aligned with the longer bolts and the ball joint angle doesn't seem too bad on mine. Then again I only have it cranked up 2 inches.

Relay the headlights. that will solve most of your issues. LED's would make good daytime running lights though.

I don't know which fuse it is but looking in the fusebox or owners manual should tell you. If you don't get a good idea from there you can just check them all it only takes a few minutes.

If the brakes don't fit together right like you said, then they are fine. It's when they can slide into one another and you can turn them that it is a problem. Looks like your cv axle is the culprit. It's not supposed to rub on the shock lol.

Actually it's better.

My light wiring has already been jacked by someone in the past. The DRL module is known to fail on these trucks so someone cut the drivers side high beam wire and spliced the passenger side high beam wire into it. I added the relays for the low beams but have not done the highs yet because of this DRL issue.

I only paid 16 dollars for my factory pin from nissan.

You should have no problems driving in the mountains with either model. With a 5 speed the VG33E is a great engine. I've seen people literally beat the crap out of them and they just keep on going with minimal maintenance. The auto tranny is good and reliable but you can utilize the power better with a manual IMO. FWIW I have 345,000kms on my VG30E (pretty much the same motor) and it doesn't even lose a drop of oil. I have not had that much experience with the vq35 other than what I've read on here and with my mothers 05 maxima.

The spare tire carrier is mounted extremely well. You can sit on it and swing it around and nothing moves.

How did you get around the problem of the Daytime running lights. They use the high beams at half power. So if the DRL module sends the half power to the highbeam wire won't it just trigger the full power from the battery that the relay sends to the bulb?

Sweet! I can't wait to see it finished.

Your drivers side hub is the problem. I would take it apart and clean it/check for damage but I have a feeling that it is the "brake" plates that engage the hubs. They wear out over time. There is a thread around here somewhere with pictures of what I'm talking about. I'll try and find it for you. If you take the 2 brake plates and put them together they should be a certain thickness and should not slip while stuck together. Here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24663&view=findpost&p=450121 Now if that is the problem your options are: -Buy new brake plates from nissan (about 60 dollars when I last checked). -Get some from a JY and take your chances. -Get manual hubs. -Live with 2wd only. I'm sorry I should have said that when one cv spins but no tire movement on that side and nothing at all on the other it is normal because it is an open differential. I hope I didn't just confuse you more.

Fuel filter is new as of the spring. That is the second time I have changed it as well. I'm gonna do the test this week or next hopefully the weather becomes more friendly.

Ok so I have been living with this problem for a while now. I fixed the maf wiring and the engine runs pretty good now. But I still get the hard start/wavy idle for a second or 2 after it fires up. Has anyone else had this issue? It only does it when it is warm. I am going to get a fuel pressure tester soon. From googling I have found that (although on other vehicles) it may be the fuel pressure regulator. Are they known to fail on the wd21s? When I was on my road trip after a long drive through the hills and such I found my fuel pump was really loud in the back. I noticed it when I got to Texas. It stopped doing it and I just ignored it cause I figured it was the hot weather or something. Nige told me his did the same thing, is this something to be concerned about?

I stared at it from inside my nice warm house while it looks like an ice cube in my driveway.