adamzan

Wow, I've never heard of that. Could you post some pictures of where the damage is?

Considering after the Y pipe it is pretty much straight back to the muffler it shouldn't be that hard to do it in 2.25. In theory the only part you would need a shop to do is the tail pipe.

Sounds like it could be the problem. Usually when a sensor is bad it will do it when warm because when the engine is cold the computer doesn't use the sensors for the mixture.

You don't need to have any sort of scanner. Here is how to do it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21

Sounds like your o2 sensor is gone. I had the same problem and it didn't put a CEL on. Either the o2 sensor or the coolant temp sensor. If you look in the garage section there will be a how to on how to check the codes even if the CEL isn't on there may be a code stored. It can't hurt to check. Also download the factory service manual it will give you resistance values for the sensors.

Best plugs would be NGK. I used the G-power ones. They perform well and last a long time. Wires Either NGK or Bosch will do. Replace the cap and rotor while you're at it.

Next time stab a screwdriver through it to turn it.

You would think Nissan fix would be to tell the techs to remove and re weld, not something that some back yard mechanic would do.

Get the socket if you want to do it 100% right. I could never get the bearings set properly without it they kept coming loose. http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm Doesn't cost very much and makes the job a lot easier. Tapping the nut with a screwdriver damages the holes, well at least it started to on mine.

I have the husky liner in the rear of my 95. I got it used from some guy that traded his truck in years ago and had it lying around. It's pretty nice and I've thrown stuff around on it and after you hose it off it looks brand new again. +1 for husky brand

If you want something that sounds good but isn't too loud, I got a walker stainless steel muffler. It's only a bit louder than the stock one and it has lifetime warranty.

Sounds like a good experience. Once you get there and are immersed in the language it will come naturally to you after all that studying. Same thing happened to me with italian.

If it clunks, vibrates on the highway and touching the 4wd exacerbates it, it sounds like it could be u-joint related.

He doesn't understand.

If you plan on keeping the truck for a while and wheel it. I would get one. It makes bearing/brake work a lot easier.

I believe these came stock on the jdm pathfinders/terrano. Maybe i'm wrong but I thought they did!

In the fsm it describes the procedure. But at the end you want 1-2 ft-lbs on the locknut so there is no free play.

Does it ever overheat in the summer? My dad had similar winter symptoms and it was the rad that was clogged.

13 bucks. http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm I have ordered 2 from here before they are easy to deal with and ship fast. Edit: link would be a good idea

Sounds like the sending unit wiring was corroded and they took a while to figure it out and then billed you for all that time.

Actually, you're supposed to put it in Neutral. Anyways OSR is right. You can't be moving or in gear when going to 4wd low range. That grinding is the Tcase protesting you forcing it into lower gears while stuff is still turning. If it is the manual shift tcase it's the same as the wd21 as far as shifting to low range goes. The electronic shift I'm pretty sure you still have to stop!

How can people stand the blue? You can't even seen the damn needles.

Did you accidentally get bushings for an r50 tire carrier instead?

Sounds like its the dreaded maf wiring. Try wiggling the wiring at the connector and see if it goes away.

Can you take a pic of it?