adamzan

Sounds like the timing belt broke. Take the distributor cap off and bump the starter and see if it turns. If it doesn't the belt broke. You can put a new belt on but there is a good chance some valves got bent.

all depends how fast you go whether its city/hwy, you use cruise/steady foot, drive like an ass, etc...

To be honest your best bet is to smoke the stock ones if you want a different look.

I'm pretty sure they did come with factory amps one should be in the cargo area and one is like behind the radio IIRC on the 93 and older ones.

It would give them a better reputation, that's for sure. Just make your own custom exhaust. For 15 grand I'll take a welding course, drive down there and do it for you!

ABS brain I believe.

If the engine doesn't ping or knock or w/e I guess you could keep using the 85. when I was out that way this past summer my truck really didn't like the 85 octane but that may be because it was used to the 87 here. I had to run mid grade out there.

Change the cap and rotor not just the cap btw.

I just used vice grips once the thing started to round with a wrench. Came right off.

does that mean if i want my rear drums to have more bite i could install a disc mc?

This is true it even explains it in the owners manual.

1995 XE Build thread: Here 3" SL 3" BL ARB bumper, SE interior sway, infinity sound. I need new tires LOL. Here it is with the JGC coils and cranked tbars: Here it is with the 3" AC lift Only good wheeling pic I have of it, hehehe:

Maybe your timing belt is off a tooth or 2

The 4cylinder rav4 has like a 1500lb towing capacity so I doubt you could put much in the back without bogging it down. The v6 version is 3500 just like a wd21 pathfinder. Personally I would install some beefier springs in the pathy and replace the bushings with polyurethane. Do it once and do it right.

Well, it's been almost 3 years since I did my timing belt service, and I lose zero oil between changes so I assume they are still fine. And if they do start leaking, I'll just throw a new belt on there.

To be honest I wouldn't touch the crank or cam seals unless they were leaking. I know some people like to do them anyways but if they've made it this far without leaking....

The ginger makes a good point.

Having a cold one for you brotha

I would start at the maf sensor, and if that tests good then the wiring at the connector, it is a known problem on these trucks.

The swaybar links and bushings could be worn out, not hard to check just grab them and see if there is any play. The rear link bushings, try and twist the rear links if you can twist them more than a hair they are probably done. The lower links control allow the axle to articulate while the upper ones are set in a way that prevents the axle from rolling forward or backwards. The panhard rod locates the axle in the proper horizontal position.

The fuel filter is right by the power steering fluid reservoir. You can't miss it. Literally takes like 5 minutes to change, unless the hoses are really stuck to it. Make sure to pull the fuel pump fuse and run it till it stalls to depressurize the system.

I would check the codes and find out what it says.

I think they say at least because in some places (like parts of the us that I was in this summer) had 85 octane as regular. My pathy did not like that @!*% so I ran premium.

This happened to me once this summer, I pulled the fuse as I didn't have time to diagnose properly and when I put it back in it was fine and hasn't done it since. Damn electrical gremlins.

install a 95 ignition that doesn't have the stupid button