adamzan

http://nissannut.com/maintenance/spark_plugs/

I would try cleaning and making sure the battery terminals are tight. That happened to me and it wouldn't start sometimes. If that doesn't work then it could be the starter.

I checked the temps at the vents and it is within spec according to the FSM. So the compressor part is working ok I guess just noisy same with the free wheeling bearing. I kinda wanna swap it out for my good compressor but don't wanna lose my charge.

I hope if the tire isn't the same size that you put the spare on the front and a good front on the back

Yeah I have a spare compressor but I was hoping to not have to empty all that good r134a. Plus I don't have a place to properly dispose of it. I think I'm gonna go with the radio option for now but how long do you guys think it will last? I checked the low side port pressure and its within the specs in the fsm so i assume its properly charged. It still gets cool (though it takes longer to get there) though. I guess 16 years and 358,000kms is pretty good for an oem one.

I checked my dads for him, the drivers side is perfect yet the passenger side is starting to go. I'll probably just weld it up for him. He has 285,000 kms on his 2000.

So my a/c compressor is making funny noises now. Have been told it sounds like the clutch and bearing are shot. What do you guys think? And its not the alternator or idler pulley, those are good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62o-77HablA Excuse the nasally voice but it is allergy season

I believe the headers use the same gaskets as the oem manifolds so I guess just stock gaskets will be fine. Sucks about the motor. Tell them to put a new clutch in it while they're at it

http://beergarage.com/PathRekey.aspx

Where in canada are you? Maybe someone in the area could stop by and lend a hand.

I've taken mine to the dealer a few times but only for things that I couldn't do myself (seat belts, alignment), or I didn't trust other mechanics to do (alignment). The dealer near me prides themselves on their competitive prices for routine things. An oil change is only 29.99 and alignment is 79.99! Most places charge 100 for an alignment, even more on a wd21 cause it takes longer. But for everything else I DIY.

I would replace the rear main seal while you have the tranny out.

Ouch, looks like you're suffering from the frame rot!

Just make sure you buy a good quality compressor this time or you'll be doing it again in another 10,000 miles.

Sounds like your o2 sensor could be bad. When mine was bad it was completely gutless.

There is a special harness you can buy at nissan that fixes the maf ground problem. There is a thread around here somewhere, I'll look for it.

I had thought about bypassing it but it is stupidly integrated, I would have to re wire everything. Plus it is the law that they have to work, at least in onterrible.

I think they are around 220 from partsource.

Performance mods, I have done nothing, yet (have headers waiting in the garage) but I put new plugs/wires/cap/rotor/o2 sensor/pcv valve in last winter. It's an automatic, and I don't drive it like I stole it, and I use the cruise whenever I can. I don't think so, maybe in the winter we have the oxygenated gas or w/e its called so it doesn't freeze. I know I usually get worse mpg in the winter months. The only time I noticed a difference was when I was in certain us states and I mistakenly put 85 octane in, instead of 87 which is the minimum. It actually made a pretty big difference and the CEL came on. Then again it was probably used to my elevation.

Pretty sure the AC belt only runs the AC. If the belt isn't very new I would just cut it off since I think you have to remove another belt to get it off the normal way.

So what did you do about the daytime running lights? The reason I haven't done this is because the DRL uses the high beams at half power, so if you plugged in the relay harness, wouldn't it be sending full high beam power to the headlights in DRL mode?

Current bid 5,000! Wish I had that kinda money I'd bid on it!

I get 16mpg city and over 19 highway. I have driven this thing through a lot of the states and back to Canada (15,000kms) so I did enough "real life" numbers. I averaged 23mpg on the highway. At the time it was pretty much stock except for a 3" body lift... And if you have bigger tires, your odometer will show less, so that would mean you would look like you're getting worse mileage than if it had been correct...So if his numbers are flawed its possible he's getting better than that

I have heard people getting 2mpg more with manual hubs. The reason is, is that r50s have full time drive flanges so the front diff/cvs/shaft, is always turning. Versus with manual hubs set to off, you don't have all that stuff to turn unless you lock the hubs.

If I were going to do any mods like this I would install a small hydraulic filter along the way somewhere. It would keep the fluid clean and allow for a little bit of cooling.