adamzan

When I did mine I had someone hit that joint with a hammer while we jacked the truck up, moved perfectly. I did soak it in PB blaster for like 2 days before though.

So I notice my steering wheel vibrates a lot these days while going over bumps or even rough parts of the highway. I have found play in the steering shaft that seems to be past that rubber connection thing and further up the line. The fsm says there is a ujoint there but I pulled the insulator in the dash and couldn't see anything. If you grab the steering wheeling and try to move it like you were checking for bad wheel bearings it moves up and down and side to side. The u joint at the tilt is tight. Has anyone ever taken this apart before? Here are some pics of what I'm talking aboot. No play in this ujoint or the tilt mechanism: There is no play in this joint but the whole shaft moves up and down and it seems the source is up in the firewall. I got the insulator off but couldn't budge this other cover.. First fsm diagram shows a u joint up in the firewall there but I can't seem to find it. Second diagram, where is said u-joint?? I have the tilt steering. It is starting to feel unsafe. I checked the one on my parts truck and it is loose too so I guess it is new for me. So the question is, where should I proceed from here?

Could just weld the plate in. I know a local member here did that when he re did his floor.

You have a 95 so you should just be able to pop the electronic speedo sensor from your old tcase into the 90 one.

Common problem on northern 3.3 apparently. My dad had to have his replaced but luckily under warranty at Nissan.

The first gen xterra non supercharged has more power than a wd21, but I think it is the same as the 3.3 r50.

That would work, yes.

I would start by putting a new belt on it and see if it runs. If it runs smooth you're lucky but if not you probably bent some valves.

Drove it.

http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=315995&an=&page=0&vc=1

Did some rust repair today. Welder died 90% of the way through. Had to borrow one. Damage: Mock up 1/35245: Almost Done: Done just need to seam seal and paint:

It comes in spray cans. I empty 3 or 4 of them into the frame via the access holes after I've power washed it out. It is like 14.99 a can at CT. I saw at TSC that you can buy a paint can size version but I would need a way to spray it.

I used the black asphalt undercoating from CT. And then I painted it with some rust paint. There are a couple different kinds of undercoating in the same aisle. I got the paintable one. I use fluid film on the inside.

You should bring it up to ottawa for the wheeling trip we're planning!

updated

Plugged a hole in my tire from a nail.

I think it is pretty important because when it detects knock it will changing the timing until it isn't knocking anymore IIRC. If it goes bad it will usually set a code.

I've never disconnected my battery and my whole rear frame and floor have been repaired without any issues. But I may have just been lucky. Also for a ground what we usually did was weld a bolt to the floor or frame or whatever for the ground clamp.

This ^ . I had the same problem. The rod was worn so badly it was about the size of a pencil when we took it off.

Instead of grinding down the rust, I just cut it out about an inch all the way around with a zip disc on the grinder. Rust gone in less than a minute! Then again I am really really impatient.

Fixed the maf wiring so it won't break again.

Any hose claps of the correct size will work, I just prefer the ones I posted because I think they look nicer.

On the topic of hose clamps, I used this style for everything on my truck. They seem to clamp more evenly and they look nicer.

You could do the pads and rotors and the line yourself if you have the tools. It only takes a few hours.

To be honest that is exactly what happened when my 93's starter went out. Usually if the battery is low it will make a bunch of rapid clicking sounds. If it doesn't start, you can try lightly tapping on the starter with a hammer or something. If it starts right after that you have found the culprit.