adamzan

I just let it drip out for 30 minutes or more if I have time. My oil does not go dark in the 5000kms that it stays in my engine, comes out almost the same color it went in! I have heard that changing it while the motor is still warm is a good way to get more contaminates out but I have not seen any proof of this.

Engine temp sensor could definitely be causing your issues. A few people have had that problem.

ahahahhahah

I remember when magregor pulled his rad to do the timing belt, it didn't have the auto cooler in it.

I think you should try this mod first: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4945 You will probably be happy with the light output. Or maybe even check your bulbs and see if they have black stuff forming on the insides making the light output really dim, mine did this.

If the oil pressure was low at idle wouldn't the lifters be making a lot of noise?

Exactly, how do you think the cruise would work without a vss

But it is a dodge colt? Weren't you happier without it Yeah the rubber hardens. Some people also say that the crankshaft could have a worn spot in it but I've talked to several mechanics and engineers that say that this never happens/is very rare.

If you don't want the auto cooler just get a rad for a manual truck.

That can be said for any vehicle, willing to bet most wd21s that have had tranny failure probably had the original fluid in it.

do you have the one that is a circular light around the ignition?

Try running some seafoam trans tune through it.

Without the wing on my basket it makes a loud howling noise. I can live with a drop ( that I haven't noticed) in mileage so its quiet.

Sounds like what happened to my dads r50. The timing belt was a tooth off and the truck had no low end power but it had pretty much the same at the top end. I would tell them to keep it until its fixed!

Private shop, they insisted it was fine, even took it apart again to look. But I guess either they had wrong info or they kept miscounting teeth.

Check the rear tailgate you usually have to space the striker up with some washers to make it contact the switch.

Maybe they use their fluid a lot? No idea. Mine are original too and are still working well.

Pete if pliers or vice grips won't get it off maybe replacing the hoses would be a good idea/easier. Would probably be like 2 bucks worth of fuel line from part source.

This happened to my dads pathy. The morons at the shop told me it was fine but I tore it all apart again and discovered the same thing! Ran fine for the most part but SES light would flash if you let it idle for more than a minute!

I'd go for the grinding some flat spots for a wrench. That always works for me on stuff like this.

I'd like to see those pics too as I am still not happy with how mine is lined up.

Just don't turn fast lol

I've had no problems aligning mine with the AC arms on mine either. The tires still wear funny but that is my fault for driving with loose steering parts and worn bushings. the ball joint angle isn't all that bad either. Still relatively flat. I guess I got one of the good sets like derek.

What about the 02 sensor, and check for vacuum leaks.

No @!*%!