adamzan

The stock air intake is surprisingly decent at preventing water from getting in. I've been in water over the hood a couple times and it didn't get wet at all. I think entering the water properly is what helps.

Why is he swapping engines? is something wrong with it

The easiest way to find out which line is which is to put the hoses in a bucket and turn the truck on for a split second.

Took my dads car50 to montreal a couple weeks ago and it averaged 21mpg that is with crazy Quebec traffic. No a/c on at all though. Try to use cruise on the highway its a big help.

They have 3 wires.

No I am not lazy I just would like to retain the stock look.

There should be a wire that plugs into the a/c compressor that gets power when you press the a/c button, maybe tap into that?

It is well known for the vq to burn oil there is a solution somewhere, I just can't find the link ATM the problem is a clogged oil return or something. And no burning oil is not a common problem with nissans in general. I know plenty of people with nissans of all types and they don't have any issues.

For your overheating issue, it is the radiator. I have seen this on 3 r50s personally now. It starts with the a/c then it will do it when driving on the highway because the rad gets clogged. Flushing didn't seem to work either. Also one thing to remember don't use cheap parts on your truck if you want it to last. Shop at napa or rockauto instead of advanced or autozone they seem to sell crap.

Is it just me or did they not put much grease in those things at all?

Sewebster how did you remove the abs speed sensor? Did you have to remove the pinion nut from the rear end? I hear that sucker is tight and I need to change mine and the oil seal there. Towncivilian make sure you do like 3 or more light coats instead of fewer thick ones. I found that helped too. I was told by a body shop that you know when its cured when you can't make a mark with your finger nail in it.

My friend put one on his truck and he found that moisture kept getting into the connection and corroding it. Then again I live in Canada so maybe our climate is what ruins them.

A good way to check the timing belt is to take of the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when you turn the motor over.

It looks like someone put a universal o2 sensor into your truck. I hate those things.

Depending how long it has been and how good they are they might cover it for you. For the bumper give it another couple light coats to hide the light spots.

It's been known to fit 33's on the ac 2" lift with a little trimming so I think with the right wheel offset it will fit fine.

I have a 4" (those AC 3" springs gave me a lot of height) in the rear with shocks like garrets and I have not had a problem either.

If you are only keeping 31's i would go for the moog replacement ones from rock auto. They are a great price too. Then when you get them in you can see how much your front end needs cranked. I had a 1.5 inch crank on my oem control arms and it aligned just fine.

I knew a guy in high school that had a 97 pathfinder with over 400,000kms on it. Not the same motor as yours but the rest of the truck is pretty well the same. And he beat the living snot out of it!

Sounds like the dreaded maf wiring problem. Try wiggling the wires at the MAF and see what happens.

Actually that is a good thing that they run until cool. My friends VW does the same thing from the factory. Have you ever noticed if you shut your truck off on a warm day (with the stock fan) and then turn it on like 5-10 minutes later the temp gauge has gone way up?

That happens to me all the time here. People don't look and just swerve into lanes. Glad I have my ARB on because now I don't care if you tap my truck your car is the one getting messed up.

Yeah I was kinda disgusted when the PA instructions said "cut your floor to have 4 low again"

Holy @!*% the vq uses a small filter.

I would check the timing. Hopefully they put a new timing belt on it before they put the motor in. Also see if any plug wires are loose