adamzan

I wouldn't cut it back that far, if you look at the lip you will see there is 2 parts, and it will leave a gaping hole in your truck.

Not really. Paid 34 dollars for mine. That was full retail cost from my local dealer.

Don't tell me you thought that was hard.

Stock motor. Mine does 130km/h all the time. I usually set the cruise control there when I just wanna get home fast lol. 172km/h = 105~mph. I only did it in the flat part of utah last summer. That was enough speed for my old truck. Took a little while to get there lol.

The real problem is your headlight switch. Try taking it apart and cleaning the contacts up. The fact that the full current runs through the switch is why it fails, and the relay harness solves that problem.

Fastest I've ever had mine was 172 km/h. After a tune up mine will hold 130+ with the cruise control no problem.

Don't try to start it! Pull the plugs out and get all the water out!

They work on my 95SE as well. On my old 93 they were so worn out that you had to keep it in sport mode because the soft mode made it feel like a boat.

If you don't use the bumper relocation brackets (like if you have a custom bumper) you can use those to extend your parking brake. That is what I ended up doing and it works great. One side bolted right up and the other side I had to weld to the floor because the bolts broke off. But no big deal.

Are you saying it doesn't turn over or that it takes more turns. Does it sound the same each time? I would clean contacts first and if that doesn't help you might need a starter.

Mine rounded off too. I just clamped vice grips on there really tight and then they broke loose.

Putting a small coat of copper rtv on the gasket couldn't hurt. Also you could take some sandpaper and clean up the flange surface for better adhesion.

That sounds like a bad u joint. My truck used to do this all the time. Especially on cold mornings. Replacing the u-joint at the transmission fixed it. 12 dollar part and about 2 hours of my time.

Yup, I actually bought a set of rear hardline with the intention of replacing my custom ones. They came perfectly pre bent so it fits like a glove.

I would check for loose connections first. For the lights I have heard the dimmer switch can cause no dash lights. Not sure about the parking lights though.

If you look in the FSM (pinned in the garage section) there is a detailed explanation of how to remove the transmission. It actually goes step by step. Hope this helps. Good luck and don't use cheap no name parts!

If it is leaking from a metal line you can actually go to partsource and get a section of brake line and bend it roughly into the shape of the original. I went this route because the dealer didn't have any in stock but I was in a rush. If I were to do it again I would go with oem because frankly it just looks neater. For a flex hose I'm pretty sure you can get those anywhere like partsource, CT, NAPA, CarQuest, and Benson auto parts.

I don't think wd21s have the ability to tell if the gas cap is not on properly. I think that all started with obd2.

If it were me, I would either SAS it, or, lift it with the ifs, and run some 33/35's. Fixing the frame would have to be done anyway though. You know they make patch kits for them now that you just have to weld on. I hate roof chops. But that is JMO.

So i could use an Xterra sway bar for more front end stiffness? interesting.

As long as you can beat a 90's riced out civic then it is running fine

In your last pic it doesn't look like the gasket is sitting tight against the header and engine.

you could just take it out and not have one at all. that is even cheaper.

Lol I have a perfect black bumper for sale.

The distributor cap is the thing the spark plug wires hook on to. If the timing belt is broken or has slipped more than 3 teeth there is a good chance you may have bent some valves.