adamzan

Does your frame have bolted on patches lol?

Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if it runs better.

You can tighten lugs with an impact, but use a torque stick and start the first few threads by hand as not to damage the stud or nut. Although personally I go for the trusty torque wrench.

Yeah as long as you don't beat the piss out of it on the trails (like smashing the tires into rocks at speed causing the wheel to rip out of your hands) you should be ok. I wheeled on the stock centerlink with 31s for a long time and it was fine. It was my idler arm causing the issues, make sure that is tight and you have a brace on it.

The SE that I took my cloth seats out of had a heated drivers cloth seat. It's nice to have in our winters

I fixed mine a little while ago (rear wiper) and it was a different pump that had a rubber impeller (yeah soft rubber). It works now but it sounds like a bag of cats.

Thats the system binding because the front and rear wheels are trying to go different speeds. If it is doing that, then you don't need to be in 4wd.

Just an FYI, wider tires will also kill gas mileage and power

I'm not paying 60 dollars for headlight bulbs.

Another check you can do is go under the truck, grab the control arms and try to twist them, if they move then you know they are bad

Do your tie rods have bolts covering where grease fittings could be? If not you could always drill a hole in the top and put a fitting in.

matt likes to lube his shaft.

The problem is, with monroe shocks, at least in my experience, is that they are great for the first 10,000kms and then they go really soft. And you know how it feels in a wd21 with soft front shocks, it is downright sketchy on bumps. Especially if you wheel. I came into a situation where I was descending a rocky trail and I was trying to go as slow as possible as to not bottom out, but the shocks were so darn bouncy that it was very hard to control the truck with it oscillating like that. I personally prefer the stiffness of the ranchos in the rear. But I still find the front rancho shocks a tad soft.

How much brake pad do you have left, and have you ever repacked your wheel bearings? I had a set of pads that squeaked when they were 3/4 worn out and when I changed them the noise went away.

The transmissions are not @!*%, it is the lack of proper cooling that is the problem. I have nearly 400,000km on my transmission that still works flawlessly. It made it to 300,000 on the stock cooler. And I tow with it regularly.

I had the same problem on my passenger door. It looks like the seal just shrinks over time and it separated looking like it was cut. I put some black silicone on the outside and you can't notice it. But it still made noise till my buddy shoved part of a receipt into the inside part, quiet now lol.

The only part that bothers me is that the headlights stick out like that, is it possible to do it without having to extend the lights like that?

Those are in great shape. Mine weren't too bad when I changed them but I put new rods in anyways.

If you look it should also be bolted to the frame underneath with four bolts, you can reinforce it but when I did my BL I just gave it away as I didn't want to be bothered.

It's not the road salt it's what the brake dust does to the wheels. On my legos only 2 of them are like that, the front 2 .

I would replace the gas cap and check the evap lines first. Might just be a bad cap.

Flat and military colors are not really my thing, but if you do a good job of masking it off like ^ did I think it will turn out well. Make sure you take your time doing the prep work as that is what can make or break a paintjob.

Yeah it is most likely the lifters. 10w30 is probably fine for the winter but I believe the spec is 5w30 so I would be using that.

Engine mounts is a good possibility. My exhaust is nice and tight and there are no vibrations (at least from the exhaust). I would also check the transmission mount and the universal joints. What I do is take the drive shaft off and try to move the joints in every possible direction to check for binding. To check for play put the transmission in neutral and put the parking brake on so you can move the drive shaft a bit. Grab it and try to move it and check for lateral play in the joints.