adamzan

Yes they will work with the stock sleeves.

If you're mechanically competent and have the FSM handy it should take you around 6 hours (working at a reasonable pace) unless you find something else wrong (buy all parts for the job ahead of time). My record is 3 hours but I've done it a few times and it was a belt only replacement.

Are you sure it just isn't' the torque converter unlocking and locking? I find it unlocks fairly easily on these trucks, even on the highway. Also since the abs light comes on at the same time I would start looking into a possible electrical problem, there is a detailed diagnostic for the transmission in the FSM (factory service manual).

Well your 04 pathfinder is the VQ35, so it has a timing chain not a belt. So you'll only be doing 1.

Unplug your o2 sensor and see if it runs better. Running good when cool and bogging when warm is a classic sign of it. It is on the tree of connectors behind the power steering fluid reservoir. I believe it has 1 black and 2 white wires or vice versa. But I think it is the only one with 3 wires out of all of them.

Just as an FYI. My dads pathy got bought out and he got 5500. It was a 2000 XE 5 speed. The fenders were fairly rusty and it had 300,000kms

Mine is like that too dennis. The AC 3" springs gave me a crap load of lift too. A couple questions, this makes the axle centered again right? So it won't constantly veer to the left all the time? Also, I can't find that name on ebay at all. Maybe I'm just a moron.

To be honest I have run the high end NGK plugs and the regular ones (the ngk V-power that the manual says to use) and I noticed no difference in power, or mileage. So what is the point, other than they may last longer.

This one right here: http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_4170.htm

Kyle, check this out. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/1638.html

I will check on mine tomorrow. I saw that too but I know my XE 1995 doesn't have it. But maybe my new SE with the digital trips has it.

What octane of gas you use won't affect it. It is designed to run on 87.

It probably burned up the clutches/bands/whatever they're called. Reverse was probably ok because she didn't drive home in reverse. Sucks to hear.

^ don't do that without a timing light because you wont' know where to put it exactly.

There is a little hose on the EGR BPT valve (rubber one) thats about an inch long. Check for cracks in it, mine was broken in half and it gave me an egr code.

Rock auto has bosch wires for 30 dollars and niehoff wires for 22. Pretty cheap if you ask me. People still buy the cheapest they can find and then wonder why it still runs like a bag of @!*%. Anyways, you may have a failing injector kyle, based on what you told me earlier.

Why do people always buy the cheapest parts, that is just asking for trouble.

I have the standard shims and they have not fallen out after a bunch of offroad trips, make sure they're installed right and the bolts are torqued to spec. Also I have a set of Jeep springs for sale, if you're interested.

yes

Grade 10.9 M14 x 1.5 60mm long are the size to use. Make sure you get them from a reputable fastner place. To be honest you actually don't need THAT many shims, what happens is, is the shop will align it but the tbars aren't settled so they'll think the camber is way negative and shim it out a bunch, then set the toe. And after you drive it around for a couple days (depending on how much you drive) it will sag and your tires will look like this \ / if you look at the front of the truck. It will be way positive. They have almost ALWAYS done this when I had mine aligned, until I found a shop that listened to what I said. The reason they aren't settled when they align it is, because they take the tires off (suspension droops) to make adjustments to the ucas. And when they change the toe the camber will change along with the caster. The place I took mine to took 4 solid hours to align it but at least they got it right. The AC 3" springs gave nige and I more like 4 inches of lift in the rear.

Does your frame have bolted on patches lol?

Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if it runs better.

You can tighten lugs with an impact, but use a torque stick and start the first few threads by hand as not to damage the stud or nut. Although personally I go for the trusty torque wrench.

Yeah as long as you don't beat the piss out of it on the trails (like smashing the tires into rocks at speed causing the wheel to rip out of your hands) you should be ok. I wheeled on the stock centerlink with 31s for a long time and it was fine. It was my idler arm causing the issues, make sure that is tight and you have a brace on it.

The SE that I took my cloth seats out of had a heated drivers cloth seat. It's nice to have in our winters