adamzan

I used the national brand (same company as moog) and I haven't had any issues with them.

These are the tension rod bushings: If they are not sitting in the little bushing cups or move a lot when you bounce the truck I would replaced them. They squeaked real bad on mine every time I got in or out of the truck, or hit any little crack or bump when I was going slow enough to hear it.

Check your tension rod bushings, mine squeaked. Also check the ball joints maybe they need some grease.

I wish.

could be the fuel pump but it is very common for the distributor to fail on the r50.

Belt too tight?

My maf wiring acts up all the time, and it has never once set a code for it. Maybe the sensor itself is bad?

Sorry not lifters, the cowl covers lol.

Yeah you can, I kinda pulled up on the brake rotor a bit and jiggled it around and it moved in enough to get the thing out. It helps having a second person so you don't drop the whole thing on your fingers like I did.

I have spares of those

You just need to undo the snap ring and move the CV enough to wiggle the ball joint out. I found a few good wacks with a pickle fork popped the ball joint out real easy.

Well when its the oem-probably rusted and warped flange that won't seal even with 5 gaskets in there-exhaust I would weld it.

Maybe you are giving it a little too much gas? I know with mine you have to be pretty light on the throttle or it will shift pretty high. You don't have it on the "power" setting on the E-AT switch do you? I think you are giving 'er a little too much or something is wrong with your tranny or throttle position sensor.

Should have welded the flanges shut when you had the hole in the floor!

I say get the wd21, you already know it. And at 89k it should last you for YEARS.

The DRL is the high beam at half power. It uses the high beam wire.

The three wires are Highbeam, low beam, and ground. Negative is ground.

I have just an 18k cooler, bypassed the stock cooler, and the only thing I noticed was that if you don't let it run for like 5-10 mins when it is REALLY cold (like -25C or colder) the trans will shift really hard into Drive or reverse. I had a winter front for it but I didn't run it this past winter and my heater worked well.

I just got a new boot from nissan, 30 bucks and no fuss. Cody if you have to drive it get a baking pan or some flat piece of metal (street sign works lol) and shove it under the carpet. That got me by without burning my truck down for a few days.

I think it's the brake plates that are worn out. They are part of the auto hubs, one side is on the hub the other is behind the snap ring. I had the same problem, had the truck up on a lift but for me only one was messed up. The one tire would turn and if you grabbed the tire the other cv would start turning fully but the tire wouldn't. You can buy new ones from the dealer, but I opted for a good used set from a member here.

I have had this problem on my truck for almost 3 years. Apparently if the BPT valve is leaking the egr will not function properly, no wonder my truck will barely squeeze past emissions even with a brand new cat on it. I had a brand new exhaust put on a couple years ago including manifolds planed, new gaskets and studs, and I still heard the noise. Figured out what it was but was too ignorant at the time of the emissions test trouble to make a connection. The EGR valve still stumbles the motor when you press on it so I guess that is still good. The only place online I've found new BPT valves are at Nissan. I am going to try and source one locally and if not I will check the one on my parts truck.

Sounds like you have the infamous hole in the floor. Pull your carpet and check!

All the "special wrench" is, is a socket with the side cut out for the wires to go through. It doesn't make a difference what size the 02 is the socket makes it easier than using a wrench...

Yeah it's normal. Although after a long drive through the rockies this summer mine was making some real funny noises in the heat.

Where is the cover for the end of your transmission