adamzan

If you don't want to spend a lot you can just change the rears if your fronts are still good.

Well at least it wasn't the module. Those are pretty pricey from the stealer.

Does it hold the same gear every time? If so maybe it's going into fail safe mode thinking you are spinning the tires excessively.

I've heard skyjacker shocks are alright. They make them in the lifted version. I'm going to order some as soon as I have the money.

Take your other outer and inner to them and say it's the ones you bought before and get free tie rods. I did that LOL. Actually I took the old spare ones I had in a box back and got new ones, and I think one was even bent haha.

I would order some lifetime warranty tie rods and ball joints. Get a grassroots 4x4 centerlink and you'll never change it again. Shocks, get rid of the monroes they are complete garbage for the front end of these trucks if you're going to take it any further than a gravel road. The tension rod bushings if they've never been touched are more than likely trashed as well. Steevo from rugged rocks can get energy suspension products I believe.

You can use fluid film

Andrew suffers from the MOAR is better complex.

Have to say when you said you left the outside chrome i was thinking omg that is ugly. But now that I see it, it looks really good!

I would check the hose clamps on your fuel lines under the hood. The wd21's are known for this problem but it may happen to r50 too. Usually tightening the clamps fixes it.

I had the same problem when I cranked my torsion bars with the stock control arms. There is only so far they can align it before you have to get some aftermarket ones.

Too bad you don't have a 95, I have a spare headlight switch.

It's probably the switch. If it was the DRL module you'd get no lights when you start the truck and the parking brake is off. The module near the battery is the DRL unit. No idea where the cancel unit is though.

I know a good place I usually go to I could get you a price if you want.

I don't think running regular should get you 7 mpg! Maybe an 02 sensor is starting to get lazy. They don't always set codes. Maybe you could get someone with a scanner that will show the live sensor output and you can tell. Also when was the last time you had a tune up.

I use syn and have no problems Drove from Ottawa to California on the same oil and it didn't use a drop. Synthetic just exposes problems your motor already has.

Your cat is probably bad dude. That's what my numbers looked like when it was bad. A shop that does emissions work can do this test on the cat where they drill holes on either side in the exhaust and measure it.

They aren't "that" bad. I did them myself and it took me about 2 hours. You basically just tap out the bearing races with a punch and then use the old race on top of the new one to tap it in with a hammer. Then you grease everything up and install according to the service manual. Don't forget to get new inner grease seals. They're about 10 dollars each (this was in Canada).

Yes they do. You're must have been old and worn out. Happened to me. New set of friction plates fixed it.

You could lift it with the floor jack right at the lower link bracket. That's where I lifted mine.

Keep bringing it back. It is their fault so they should have to pay to fix it.

Dude if you have nothing to say other than emoticons to imply that you don't' agree then don't post at all.

You will regret that decision if you take it offroad much. They get real soft after about 20k. I found the front end boucned way too much on the trails.

That second link doesn't work for me. I have seen your vids on youtube looks like a good job. Can you take more pics of how you set up the accessories. If I ever go this route I want to keep my air though!

I agree. Put some cheap ball joints in it, go easy on the clutch, and do what B said to the tranny and valve cover gaskets.