adamzan

Or coolant temp sensor.

That's what usually happens. Although I find with CT there are good and bad shops. Like I know the one on Carling is good but the one in kanata is crap. I had a shake the other day but it was because I got snow in my rims after doing donuts in my college parking lot

Try turning the wiper on, and then moving the wiper arm with your hand. Sometimes it just gets stuck.

Check to make sure it is not seized. I thought mine was burnt out too but turns out the thing was seized. Try lubing it on the outside of the hatch between were it moves and where it doesn't. You might have to "help" the arm across the window for a bit.

Yeah but you have to remember they went and did the research and all the work to make it a weld on piece that will fix most mild-moderate cases of frame rot. Our frames are like 2mm thick from the factory which equals about 0.078 inches. So it is more than enough. Even better is that it makes it easier to locate that upper cross member (the one that has a V shaped mount) that has a nasty habit of falling off when the rot gets real bad.

Whatever dude, the factory frame is even thinner than that anyways. It's way better than having this: I would rather one piece than the 10 stupid looking patches mine has. They are all nicely welded but still it looks like @!*%. I'm sorry but that thickness is more than thick enough for our frames and adding anything more than 1/8 is just adding more weight to an already underpowered and heavy vehicle.

Could be the belt is a little loose even though the tension "feels right". Maybe give it a couple cranks and see if it goes away. When my alty bearings went it sounded like this:

I would not release it into the air. If it hasn't been retrofitted a 92 would have the old ozone depleting r12. The green stuff is the compressor oil.

Sounds like the fan clutch. I just had to replace mine because it was doing the same thing. When the clutch was not engaged it make a bunch of squawking noises. Thought it was a belt, changed it, but no go. Put a new napa clutch on and it's been good ever since.

Ok I just got a reply from the dude.

X2 When they did mine it was always an older guy working on it, presumably because he was the only one who knew how to do it

I emailed them with some questions. We will see.

Looks like they didn't' touch them as the camber is the same as well. They probably just set the toe.

Is your rear higher than stock? Mine pulls left too I was told it's because I haven't dropped the panhard yet. It shifts the axle right.

Did you leave the heat on full when you filled?

Took the shop I took mine to took near 4 hours, but they got it nearly exact. It drives perfect now.

X2 on the let it warm up part. There is a hot and cold reading on mine but I prefer to use the hot as the manual states. If it is too high, drain some out of the pan and re check. If it is too low add a little bit at a time until it is at the max on the hot side. Or if you've never changed the fluid you could go and get it changed and then you'd know the right amount was put in.

You need to lube the window tracks. Use some silicone spray lube and with the window down spray into the corners of the track. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3640&pid=27739&st=0entry27739

Actually they're not that hard. The bearings hardly ever fail in these trucks, I changed my drivers side bearings thinking that was the issue but turns out it was the tires! Anyways, all you have to do is drive out the races and drive the new ones in. Use the old races on top of the new ones to tap them in. I had never done it before in my life and it only took me 1.5 - 2 hours to do. Make sure you replace the grease seal as well if you're doing bearings. I thought it was hard until a couple others on here explained to me in person what to do, it was real simple.

Change the timing belt and waterpump. There are multiple write ups on doing this. It's not that hard and you can save like 400 dollars in shop labor by doing it yourself. Change the plugs,wires, rotor and cap, filters (air, fuel), pcv valve, vacuum lines if they're cracked at all. Maybe even the o2 sensor for good measure and you should have it running perfect.

Did you burp the cooling system? Like get all the air out of it.

I would check your autohubs, tension rods, brake pads (one could be not sitting right and moving when you brake/reverse), wheel bearings and Cv axles (turn the tire all the way each way and you can see them easier). Also the front crossmember bolts could need re torquing. I have the wheel bearing locknut socket if you need to borrow it. If it is groaning only in 4x4 (when hubs are locked) I would check your front differential fluid.

I'm pretty sure its 3 sided. Actually I'm going to email and ask.

Looks like it is 3 sided and goes from the body mount under the rear seats to the rear bumper. Definitely a great start.

Thing is did he take it to the one I suggested or to the original one? The one I suggested was recommended to me by a guy in my friends vw/audi club. I've never had issues with them.