adamzan

If it's running fine, (not burning or leaking) I would run what the factory recommends which I believe is 5w30. You don't need this "high mileage" oil.

So, my truck has always had this intermittent issue with reverse not working, when it did engage, it worked fine, no slipping. But when it didn't you just had to go to N and back to R and it was in. Well I've really gotten tired of it and while adding an external filter did help reduce this occurrence, it didn't completely eliminate it. A little while ago I had picked up some sea foam and some sea foam TRANS TUNE. I had used the sea foam but left the trans tune on the shelf as I feared it would do more harm than good. I took my road trip this summer and a few days ago I remembered I had bought this stuff. I figured, what the heck. The instructions said to put 1/2 a can in, run for a little bit then change the fluid. I dumped the whole can in and will be changing the fluid this afternoon. After driving it to school and back I immediately noticed that it shifted better, and faster. Reverse has been working 100% since then! This @!*% really works. I checked the fluid and wow it got darker so I'm going to change it today. I will pick up another can of trans tune, put 1/2 in and leave it for the next 10k before I do another change to fully clean the tranny. So, if you are having reverse engagement issues I would try this stuff. It will not help a slipping tranny though, only one that is clogged up with @!*%. I took my truck to a well known trans shop and told them what happened, they told me that there is a 90% chance the valve body was plugged up. http://www.seafoamsales.com/trans-tune.html

NAPA? Or dealership?

Dude your shocks, they be upside down!

Can you record a video of it? Would make it a lot easier to guess what it is!

I think one reason is so you can turn it off during water crossings. Also it helps the a/c work better in town as the clutch fan kinda sucks at moving air at idle.

I think most pad sets come with new pad retainers? You mean those little metal clip like things? At least mine have always. Also there is only a front inner grease seal, the hub o ring seals the other side. Unless my pathy is missing something! Just saying in case he tries to hunt for parts that don't exist!

When you do the rear drums (it's not hard, I figured it out in minutes), make sure you put anti seize on the adjuster threads and where it slides into the other part of the adjuster. It only takes a a few seconds to do and will make adjusting the drums 10x easier. Also a tip I learned on here, do one side at a time that way you have one as a reference.

Put it in 4wd, roll forward about 10 feet. Then put it in 2wd and get someone to watch the cv's while you roll forward more. If they turn then the auto hubs did engage as you have to go in the opposite direction to unlock (I'm sure you know that though) If only one is turning well then you know which one didn't engage. This is how I found my sticking auto hub.

No fans are really a bolt in swap but it isn't hard to modify it to fit. I like my E-fan, it has one big fan and a smaller one that is wired to come on only when the tstat says so and the a/c is on. I don't remember what it is out of, I got it from Simon, and it was already modded to fit. The stock alternator handles it fine it seems but I do have my 90 amp maxi one sitting here ready to install.

If you manage to get one of these trannys to 415F you probably have bigger problems!

Instead of having to suck the gas out I would just run it till its real low. Way easier.

Yeah you can use one of those saws. I just used a bench vice to put mine in. Grease them up nice and they just slide in easily. Make sure they go in straight.

Then yours was clogged because when magregor had his cat off I did the same thing and I could see through it. (it was an oem cat)

In a parts store ask for strut rod bushings. I have no idea why they call them that.

Yeah you can do that with stock springs but the lift coils are much stiffer and wouldn't go in that way for me.

An exhaust leak there will make your mileage worse. I have one right now and my mileage has gone down quite a bit. I can only get like 450km's to a tank if I'm easy on it. I used to be able to get 500 or even close to 600 driving like a grandma.

It's not. Try getting the spring compressor out of there after. THAT is a pain.

Sounds like bushings of some sort. Can you get a video, Andrew?

With the truck on the ground, have someone bounce it up and down to look for any noticeable slop in the rods. It will be fairly easy to tell if they are worn badly.

Yup!

It might but I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't because there is the charge wire, ground wire and a connector on the alternator that goes to the ecu for monitoring purposes. What I would do is check the voltage at the battery with a multimeter. If it is below 13 volts with nothing on (radio, lights etc..) your alternator isn't charging. And I hear you on the suddenly failed thing. I bought another 95 pathfinder to fix up as a work truck and I went to start it one day and it had those lights and the alty wasn't charging. It is 15 years old though, but still sucked

X3 To tension rod bushings. Also check your Centerlink. Does it vibrate at highway speeds too? I had a mystery shake/handling issue that I finally fixed after 2 years turns out it was the upper control arm bushings...

You can buy them at CT for pretty cheap.