adamzan

I got stuck last winter, and another member here ruined his trailer hitch pulling me out. I was trying to move and I noticed that my temp gauge had almost gone all the way to the top, maybe a 1/4 inch away from it. This is what happens when you bury the front end in snow! Suffice to say I don't like snow wheeling, cause you can't see whats underneath.

when i did my tbelt i didn't do the tstat cause i thought waterpump and tbelt were all i needed and guess what that winter i had no heat and there i was doing the tstat in -20 weather.

Depends where you live dude....

From my experience a 170 was more than sufficient here in Ottawa ontario (The store only had that for a wd for some reason). But I don't live in Alberta so Idk what it's like there. Also just using the 50/50 mix is perfect for these trucks it seems. I have awesome heat in the winter and it never overheats in the summer. Make sure your fan clutch isn't staying on and not letting the truck warm up. Also you can block off part of the rad with a piece of cardboard and that will help it stay warmer.

Mine goes lower a bit too when sitting in traffic. I think my fan clutch is starting to bind as as soon as the traffic frees up it sounds like a bus for the first bit. Never used to do that at this time of year.

If it just lost all gears all of a sudden, I would check the torque converter first. I have heard of it doing this. You still have to pull the tranny but is a lot cheaper than a whole new unit! Another thing could be if the previous owner had it rebuilt and the shop did a crappy job, and it just failed prematurely. These transmissions are actually pretty good if taken care of. Usually when a cooler related issue happens you will start to lose reverse, then randomly lose front drive gears. The last 3 times I have heard someone describe the symptoms you describe it has been the torque converter. I was actually present when it happened to one person (member here and a friend of mine) the truck made a snapping noise and lost everything except part!

Why not? Magregor did it on his wd21 and had no problems. So did another member near me. Robb PM magregor or pathie4me, they both live in ottawa and have done dual alternator installs.

Try opening one of the rear windows a bit. That usually works for me.

If you get more heat while driving but less while idling and the gauge drops then it is most likely the thermostat.

I usually leave mine in power mode because I find if you don't put your foot into it, it will shift normally but if you press it a little further it will hold the shifts (like the newer chevs "tow/haul" mode) and makes it feel like its not as gutless lol.

Things I would check are, frame, tranny fluid smell/colour and how it shifts. Also find out when the timing belt was last changed, unless you wanna find out how angry your gf will be at you when it breaks in the middle of nowhere! Make sure the tranny shifts into ALL gears and that it does it quickly. If it is a little sluggish into reverse or forward it means the tranny fluid was neglected. If it is sluggish I would ask for a price drop. If it seems good then I would go for it and slap an external cooler on it. I have 340,000kms on my 95 (bought with 190) and it is still going strong.

I'm pretty sure it would fit, B. The bumpers except for the ones with the tire carrier are all the same IIRC. Maybe thats why it doesn't say 99 SE b/c its assuming it has a carrier?

There is a fix for this. Requires opening up the door lock timer (IIRC) and fixing some solder joints. I quickly googled it but couldn't find it. There is a link somewhere, maybe someone else will chime in.

Did you change the races and inner bearing seal as well?

My 95 has an O/D OFF light on the dash and an orange light on the power-vtech-nitrous-shift button.

I prefer Valvoline or Mobil1 synthetic. My engine has 340,000kms on it and is in top shape. I use the 5w30 weight like it says in the manual for most of the time but if I know I'm going to be wheeling a lot or driving a lot in the summer I will put 5w50 in. Always synthetic with a Bosch, nissan, or purolater. My engine is in fine shape and changing the oil every 5k will keep it that way. No need to spend 80 dollars on an oil change and hunting down stupid additives *cough cough zddp*. I used to put Lucas synthetic oil additive in but realized it didn't do anything (in my case as my motor is tight and quiet) so I stopped using it. I dislike Pennzoil motor oil as whenever I had it in my truck (from oil change places) the lifters would always clatter on cold starts and the engine was just noisier in general.

Rough ride? When I did my SL I swore it rode a lot better, then again I replaced a lot of bushings too. The idler arm shouldn't have been affected by the cranked torsion bars. Many people have SL's and haven't had any problems.

Sounds like what my truck was doing a little while ago. I checked codes (pinned thread in garage, go look) and came up with 51 injector circuit. I waited till I had a 1/4 tank left, put 2 bottles of injector cleaner in and haven't had a problem since.

I would check the maf, o2 and coolant temp sensors.

I have the AVS Ventvisor ones, they are the in channel style. I love them even though I don't smoke. It's nice to be able to open the window a bit in the rain to defog the windows.

I looked up the hp 2006 filter and it comes up under the fram number as PH3675, the stock wd21 filter is a PH3682. I thought these relocation kits used the big fram PH8 filters or the K&N 3001? I guess this kit just relocates the stock sized (or close to it since all 3600 series have the same threads) filter.

You can buy the right tool here, it's not very expensive and makes it a lot easier to remove and reinstall. http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_4170.htm

Do you have rear drums and if so are they out of adjustment?

Oil wars again I see.

Thing about doing that is that the sensor needs to be grounded and the tape would insulate the sensor from the block right?