adamzan

Everything in canada is ridiculously overpriced. Even if he meant the timing belt, that is still about 20$ more than anywhere else.

Do it yourself. All you need to change it is a wrench and some needle nose pliers to get the spring clamp off. You can even use an adjustable wrench to loosen it. It's threaded into the passenger side of the intake manifold... IMO you don't HAVE to use an oem one. I never did and mine is fine.

So does my wd21. I discovered the antenna is actually grounded to the body where it comes up to the windshield for the windshield part of the antenna (not sure if the X or r50s have it). So basically like ahardbody said it grounds through the body, some way or another

Do you mean the valve on the rear axle? I believe you can, but you might find your rear brakes will lock up very easily. If you don't want to spend 400 on a new one (I wouldn't either), may I suggest looking in junkyards or perhaps a part-out on here.

Yea but it isn't like you were easy on that truck, from the pictures I've seen you wheeled it quite a lot lol.

Agreed. I used the claybar on mine and it removed all these little black spots. Which turned out someone had painted near my truck...

Pics?

Save up and buy this! https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-h233b-front-axle-housing-by-diamond-axle-p-36077.html?osCsid=ekd54vkk24qu9dacs85ln2s8o5 Then you could I assume use your old pathy's rear diff.

Yea, the only problem I have had with the CV's is the boots cracking from age. I never had one fail from the angle and I had my truck lifted a while. I have one lifetime cv shaft but I lost the damn receipt!

Take the hub off, remove the snap ring. Then you can slide the cv back enough to get the ball joint out. Not a big deal...

In my experience on a pathy that needed the "relay mod" it was either it started or it didnt. As the wiring you bypass with the mod just triggers the starter. The big thick cable is what transfers the current. Could your starter just be giving up? How old is it?

Check your coolant, if it is low or isn't clean looking, change it. Also hose out the radiator fins make sure its all clean.

The trans is going into the failsafe mode because it thinks you're spinning the tires excessively. I would check the trans codes. In the garage section there is a link to the service manual that will tell you how.

While the r50 didn't come with discs, the drums on them are way bigger than the wd21 drums and last practically forever. They are more than adequate for towing and last a very long time.

Yep, a 15/16 or 24 mm wrench and lots of muscle haha. I used the moog bushing kit as well. The one I got came with new washers as well as the sleeves.

^ Totally agree, that is a very nice drive. I have done it many times with my pathy, actually my avatar picture is from my last trip up that way in the fall a couple years ago. I'm in Ottawa, not sure if you'll be blowing through here, but if you want to meet up, that'd be cool. I'm sure you're truck will do just fine, just make sure your timing belt is up to date, not much else to go wrong really. And Congrats.

Good on you for fixing it yourself. Most body shops these days won't touch anything that isn't like 2 years old and an insurance job. And they take shortcuts yet still charge you outrageous fees.

I'd give mine a 7. It has the factory paint on most of it but some spots are flaking.

IMO the diff and axle shafts are plenty strong it is just the steering parts you have to worry about.

I have not measured but I believe this will work on a wd21 as well. You can always use two different sized batteries if you have to but I think what the OP used should work.

Get grade 10.9 bolts. Metric grade 8 is only equivalent to standard grade 5.

Under the rear seats, after the body lift, there is a ton of room to build a water tank or maybe even a storage box of some kind that you could access from the inside.

Either you have loose components (bearing, ball joint, or tie rods) or your alignment was just not done properly.

Make sure the new line is a nice and tight fit. I would also check your cruise throttle cable. They tend to stretch over time. There is a procedure in the service manual for adjusting it.

Why not just get the hub bore enlarged to fit. I would not run spacers.