adamzan

I used gates seals and had no issues with them. And just recently timken ones on my friends x terra and both are holding up well

You probably have a bad o2 sensor or something, is the engine light on? 11 mpg is not right.

Nice post. I had a code 51 once and a while and never figured it out, went away on its own. Maybe I should look into this, when it is warmer of course. And yes, calmini sucks, there are a couple other members here that had the same experience as you. I bought my idler brace from 4x4parts.com, cheaper, and fit perfect.

You can get a gates timing belt kit on rock auto for maybe 20 dollars more and it is a top quality aftermarket replacement. This is what I used on mine and I had no issues whatsoever.

This guy did a rebuild on his: http://beergarage.com/PathTransmission1Remove.aspx

My old one always had a hard time passing. The last time the shop suggested the EGR, but I was able to squeak through by 1 point on the re test.

I use fluid film. Seems to work fairly well and takes a while to get washed off.

I think I actually have a black passenger heated power mirror...That I no longer need.

I would give you a decent price on it if you want to try it. I think the only difference is the bore size, pathy is 1 inch while hardbody is 15/16. You'd have stronger brakes!

I have a NIB dorman master cylinder for a 95 pathy with drum brakes....Too bad they say it isn't the same, thought it was.

Sometimes the white bottle valvoline will be on sale for 9 dollars at the walmart here. I don't usually shop there, but that is a great deal here in Canada. I run 5w30 in all seasons. Never have any issues.

A sluggish 2-3 shift is normal for these trucks (to a point). Has the fluid ever been changed? My transmission just broke on me last night (lost reverse on a trail) and I am replacing it with an HD version from an Xterra. I would hold off on the poor mans lift for now and figure out whats wrong with the tranny before it leaves you stranded like mine did.

Contact Alkorahil on here, he is a nissan parts guy and will have the best price by far. Also it'll be an OEM part guaranteed to fit.

Both of mine have heated mirrors as well. Actually I replaced my cracked mirror with one from B.

I just re used the old clamps. I had new ones in case but the old ones were in great shape and they are stainless.

I would check the fusable links that are hooked to the positive battery terminal.

5/8??? Its a 5/16 high pressure fuel line. I replaced mine recently as well.

You should go buy some real coolant. Dont use straight water.

If it is leaking bad enough you can probably see it just by looking underneath at the back tires. I know on my old one when the cylinder leaked it was soaked back there.

I was going to say the same thing...Mine is about 3/8" under max right now, I know it will probably need new front pads in the spring. My rear pads were pretty much to the metal and it was almost halfway to the low point. Yesterday I started putting new Uca bushings in my 4x4parts control arms so I could finally get a proper alignment but hit a snag, one bushing seems to not want to fit in all the way. Gonna try and finish the jerb today. Also I need to pickup new grease zerks as the ones in them ucas are seized.

Lol yea, the duratracs are a decent tire, just wish I didn't have the damn balancing problems with them... The tcase shifter was modded for the body lift, and it went into 4 low fine before, I had not used it in a while though. I tried hitting the shifter with a rubber mallet to see if i could break whatever is holding it loose, but no nice. It moves freely into 4 hi with ease though.

I found my duratracs are good in deep snow and stuff but they are downright terrible in the slush and greasy city streets. I think they are too wide. And the LSD is like locked rear end in the snow lol. Today I tried to figure out why I can't get in 4 low. Couldn't see anything wrong, but I cant seem to be able to push the shifter down enough to allow it to slide back. I can't even get to N on the t-case.

You can unplug the 02 or the coolant temp sensor to see if there is any change. When my o2 was bad it ran like crap, unplug the sensor, ran perfect. Make sure you do it one at a time though and turn off the truck when plugging/unplugging.

Use a wrench to break the nut free, and then a pickle fork to separate it from the knuckle.

A bit off topic but how is the body on that 95, as far as rust goes? I need a few pieces...