MikeV

i pour it in the cap of a spraypaint can & pull the vacuum line off the brake booster while running. putting my finger over the hose so I don't kill the truck and just stick it in. it sucks it up quick; and the smoke screen begins

I take it you don't like Calmini/Miller blue?-) (Miller Welding not nasty beer)

I run her low on fuel, pour in a pint and drive to a distant gas station; Have done this on all my vehicles including back in the leaded gas era. For oil I pour in a pint and let it idle for 10 minutes (no load) then drain oil, (I flush it with Marvel Mystery oil to get all the leftovers out) then new filter... Feed it thru a vacuum line to get the carbon & crap out. All this pint talk is making me thirsty for a Guinness!

Sea-Foam is awesome (I buy it in gallon containers) I use it in almost everything (it is in the toolkit next to Duct Tape & JB Weld) Let me Google Seafoam for You! SEA FOAM Motor Treatment is a 100% pure petroleum product that safely and effectively cleans internal fuel and oil system components, helping your gasoline or diesel engine run cleaner and more efficiently. SEA FOAM is an EPA-registered product, and will not harm engine components, seals, gaskets, catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. SEA FOAM liquefies gum and varnish deposits or internal engine components, removing carbon deposits, freeing sticky valve lifters and rings curing rough idle, pinging and hesitation problems. By using SEA FOAM to eliminate varnish and carbon buildup, mechanics can more accurately diagnose mechanical problems that may exist. That is why Sea Foam has been so popular with professional mechanics for over 65 years. As a fuel system additive, Sea Foam will clean fuel injectors, clean carbon, gum and varnish deposits, add lubricity to fuel, stabilize fuel for 2 years and control moisture. As an oil system additive, Sea Foam controls moisture, gum, varnish and residue deposits. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D11ZVYwj62w

How many amps is the mean green & did you get a good price? I have the dual battery system that Mean Green made years ago but only a 95 amp alty and may upgrade. Looks nice and the bushing should work well!-)

MAPP, PB Blaster and a hammer (I used a chunk of wood to cushion the hammer blows) Heat it, then PB it, then hit it.

Possibly a bad common ground? doubt it is a relay, sounds more like a loose wire. If I get time I'll look at the wiring diagram and get back to you.

Mine went on without a hitch also; 1 piece doesn't make for bad manufacturing. love my calmini SL and steering. Hopefully it gets resolved but the only thing that may be an issue is the 2nd hand purchase(even though it is new) That will be the customer service portion that I don't have experience with as all my stuff fit. Good Luck and hopefully they fix the issue!

Spray the hell out of all the bolts with PB for a few days and have a torch handy (I use MAPP) to heat the bolts a bit remember to get the 300zxTT studs (not sure if the standard replacement studs are evil) so you don't have a tick tick when the engine is warming up.

And I thought we stockpiled all the rust here in WI!-)

Thats where the kiwis do laundry also

Start spraying it with PB Blaster or your prefered penetrating oil ahead of time and do it a couple times a torch MAPP or Propane works magic also for what your doing the hammer impact is not going to work

PB Blaster and a little MAPP gas is what it took to drain mine; damn plug was rusted bad. (you won't boil the fluid easily and nothing will melt) while it is still hot spray it with PB or other penetrating oil to cool it quick seems to loosen the threads well and pull the PB in.

Good link nige!

I say do it! No experience until you do it, then you learn from your mistakes and have a nice primer to try it again. Duplicolor Paintshop ROCKS! But prep is the key... wet sand the entire truck to get the wax clearcoat off (fish eyes suck) Hell don't listen to me though as I only painted 1 car 20 years ago (and I even used metal flake in the paint) Green 71 240Z with Gold flake (Packers colors Yo!-) Prep... Good luck and take pics I learned to weld after my frame broke as I sit behind a PC all day; Now I'm a welding addict (have the right truck for it!-)

Have you pulled it out to look at the harness? the amplifiers in back may be the issue but would be more if it never came on. could be as easy as a bad ground Welcome to the Bestest Pathfinder forum in the world!-) MikeV I would start by pulling out the unit and checking for loose connections and check where it is grounded to the vehicle

Z32TT would be a hard fit as it is super wide My Z32 (NA) had the same clutch/pressure plate as my 95 pathy Would be a nice street truck but I would prefer the handling of the Z vs. a Pathy with all the high-end torque. Keep the Z at the mall and the Pathy in the mud! Damn I miss it...

That is normal for smaller sets, I carry 2 as most of my grade 8 half inch bolts are "16mm" Just like my socket set starts at 4mm and progresses thru 10mm in .5's (4.5mm 5.5mm etc.) helps when I have to wrench on Jeeps since they like to mix it up half standard/half metric.

Feed it some Sea Foam, in tank and thru the vacuum lines PCV changed...

Pathfinder in good shape $2500 tops; unless it has an SAS then I would pay more. Have a 95 at a stealership here they want 4900 for (nuts)

Brake shims? (lil metal spacer that some people don't use...)

Excellent! The Pathy will roll once more!

Got it covered; thanks

besides KY warming... Just wondering which wire you used in your set-up (ignition switched wire) I'll take pictures as I do it (have had it sitting around for a couple years after I bought it here) Mean green brand 4 post isolator; now that I have the new 95 amp alty in I need to get 2 batteries so I can put my winch and lights on. Thanks!-) Mike