MikeV

Them me telling you I used a flathead screwdriver and carefully tapped it without an issue (3 times so far) was going to drop small welds on a socket but since the beering grease keeps them easy to move I just tapped it off. Okay bearing grease; but beering grease sounds better

up that high won't give the full effect, Down low would be an eye opener for someone.

Sea-Foam rocks, glad the truck is happy again!

right when you turned it on?

looks like a good time!-)

I've been at my house for 3 years now; 2.5 car garage can't fit 1/2 a car. I would use one on weekends myself!-) Not the one 2000 miles away but it is a good idea to offset Mortgage payments. Good Luck! I can't smpell

Autolite 14661 @ O'Reilly Just installed it; 95 amps & dropped right in (after swapping belt pulleys) and now headlights are much brighter.

Sounds like detonation, (check timing, may be advanced to far or running too lean)

Looked like that for a week, now the frame would stop an armor piercing round You would freeze here by October B, came close to frosting a few times already.

Bottom of frame was mostly gone so I started with a piece of 3/16" x2"x6' and fed it all the way up the frame channel after I cleaned out the C-ment and removed the bolts for the bumpstop. I actually cut more out of the frame to gain access to the frame hump and bumpstop bolt holes to be able to weld the plate inside the frame rail, & also bolt it via the bumpstop and hitch. Welding & bolting = muy muy fuerte! The end of the rails where the bumper attached was very thin, welding this part was terrible. and I couldn't get a grinder in there. So glad I wasn't using FLUX core, as cleaning that would have sucked! Welds look like chicken poo but try welding a soda can to an I-beam once I also used some angle to give me more steel to weld the plating on the sides (also 3/16) I didn't need to plate the top as it was still in good shape. once the bottom was welded I just boxed the frame with 3/16 plate and sealed it up with POR-15; this was completed over a year ago and is holding up fine to towing the boat, wheeling, and the highway. I'll dig up some pics of it complete soon. Mike

Just gives me a chance to since I sit behind a PC most of the day. biggest challenge is getting use to welding rusty metal to thicker new steel, Metal Ready(one of POR-15's products) worked well to keep the sparkles to a minimum and a constant bead You don't know what your missing with the snow!-) Salt sux but snow Rocks!!

bungee held everything together got home to see how bad it was Time to :coffee!:

We all know or have heard that rust is an issue due to some states using WAY to much salt. Here is a portion of the broken frame, tried pulling a Rubicon out of a hole and all hell broke loose. Ripped the tow point, bumper and hitch off on the passenger side. Bungee cord held it the rest of the trip back to the cabin I used 2 straps to hold it for the 200mile trip home Oops also should have installed the sliders

My calmini kit came with a 3" bracket (Don't mind the lil holes in the frame; just a flesh wound;-)

Just add it to your signature!-)

If its a daily driver I would keep IFS

Once ya go black ya never go back!-) Tires that is...

Mine was the oxygen sensor freakin' could barely keep it running...

Hate to say it but replace them... I need to get all 4 soon myself.

Overdrive? may be kicking out due to rpm change then locking back in again.

Just watch the one that runs under your accelerator pedal or suffer the hotfoot, carpetburn;-0

I would recommend adjustable shocks since you are running without swaybar, when I'm on the highway I just crank them up and you never know the swaybar is gone. (I run in cab adjusters on my R-9000's but any adjustable werks) once I'm ready to wheel I crank them down and go.

Wow... glad you guys walked away!