513mugsy914

Alrighty, so I took off the intake manifold and fuel rail...replaced the injectors, FPR, and all of the vacum lines. Also while I was there also did the thermostat, lower hoses and the bypass hose. Started it up, smoked out the neighbors and bled out the coolant system. Ran fine for about 15 minutes while letting it idle in the drive way. Got in it to take it down the street and it did the same thing as before. Idles like a race motor now with the new and improved tune up, but it still dies in drive or reverse. This thing is killing me...any ideas other than what I have replaced so far. Here is the list: -plugs, wires, cap, rotor, dizzy, -fuel filter, 6 injectors, FPR, blew out the fuel lines from and returning to the tank -MAF sensor, EGR temp sensor, 4 new O2 sensors -replaced all vacum lines, and all coolant hoses, -hot tanked the intake system, throttle body, and cleared all vacum ports, If you can't come up with anything else, would anyone like to buy this thing just for the parts? If so LMK I am located on the Northside of Cincinnati, OH. HELP!!!

Well I will update later when I have installed all of the new and newly refurbished parts. I am also putting new injectors. The old ones looked all rusty colored and did not look like they should go back in. Lets hope this works....

Yes it still dies with no / part / full throttle. This is turning into a restoration project instead of a repair job!

Ok...so here is the list of parts that I have thrown at this thing and still have the same problem. Fuel filter, MAP sensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, new dizzy with new cap and rotor, EGR temp sensor. Still have no codes, so I have removed the intake system and throughly cleaned and hottanked it at work. In the process of gathering up all of the gaskets and 6 NEW INJECTORS!! COUGH COUGH! Hopefully this will get this thing running again!? Also going to put on new valve cover gaskets, PVC valve, and thermostat while I am there. I am not going to tear this thing down again. This will be the last thing that I do to it. If this does not fix it is going up for sale. I will post when I get it all back together later this week. Any ideas would be great...

So I finally got the ERG Temp sensor, modified a deep socket at work, and cleared the codes! Put the sensor in and still have the same problem. The engine does not smell like extra fuel when it stops...so it is not flooding out. I checked the ERG valve, ERG backpressure transducer, ERG soleniod, and all vacume lines to and fro. Checked all the vacume lines around on the intake manifold. I ran it for twenty minutes be for trying to move it around in Rev/Dr and still have the same issue. Runs like a champ in Park/Nuetral. I am at a lost here...

Thanks for your thoughts....anybody else want to say something before I go and give autozone $175 for a new sensor?

Alright, you guys seem to know what your talking about in here. So I have a 96 pathfinder, 4wd, auto, 3.3L V6, 171K on the odo. The problem that I am having is that the thing spudders out and dies in Rev and Drive. But will idle just fine in Neutral and Park. I have read the codes from the ECU and they are the O2 sensors and "P1401". So I called the dealer...one thing led to another...they told me after hooking up to it that the distributor was bad, and the O2 sensors needed to be replaced. Well I towed it home and did all the work myself (I did not know I was double jointed until the drivers side O2 before the cat!) along with plugs (NGK Platinum gapped to 0.044") and wires. Started just fine, idled just fine, shifted into drive and 8-10 seconds later it died. Does not matter if it is hot or cold, or it the motor is hot or cold. Please advise on what you may think the problem is. Autozone told me that the P1401 code is for a faulity EGR valve tempature sensor. But the Haynes manual says that the ECU would not throw out a code for that sensor since it does not talk to it. I hate just throwing money at a problem until it is fixed...esepcially in this day and age!