Tungsten

Whatever works. Paint it black and no one will even know. Using a sealed electrical gang box would be a better idea though.

The alternator could be on its way out and the battery is not charging properly.

From what you are describing it looks like your overdrive is not turning on. Are you sure the transmission is not stuck in 3rd gear (limp mode)?

You are nuts to put 37s on IFS.

Now grab a mini welder and make some mini custom bumpers.

Forgot to add... Never slam the hubs. Meaning do not get stuck with 2H and then shift into 4H and step on the gas. If you ever get stuck in 2H with the front hubs unlocked, shift into 4H and put it into D or 1st gear and just wait for the hubs to engage by themselves slowly. It's better to anticipate and lock the hubs ahead of time by shifting to 4H then back to 2H without reversing because then you could shift back to 4H with the hubs already locked.

It's all hype. Don't use anything with the name FUEL SAVER on it, ever.

Actually that noise sounds a lot like a broken off camshaft retainer bolt. I know Mr510s engine lost a retainer bolt back there and the cam would just walk back and forth and make that noise.

Yeah as you said they do not run well without the entire assembly. I can see the argument for it not running well without even the tube too. Of course that can be fixed by removing the battery terminal for a few seconds. The ECU will not be able to adjust for removing the entire assembly though.

Check! Back pressure is a myth, at least on a 4 stroke Otto cycle engine. The 2 stroke oil burners are a different story for a different thread... I actually believed that nonsense a while ago but after doing some research it turned out to be one of those incorrect internet facts. Accordingly sized pipes for velocity is what you want. If you have a leak before the oxygen sensor though you might have issues. Now the TBI trucks do tend to run funny with TOO much air flow. There is a specific range that the MAF sensor expects and if you throw that off the chart then the ECU is going to flood the engine.

If you ever have to shift it on the fly, don't go very fast and shift it like you mean it. Stopping to shift is still a much better idea. It doesn't take long and saves the auto hubs from self destructing.

Sad to hear but was worth a shot to revive it. Looks like it heated up enough to do damage to the clutch packs. In just 80 miles too! Nissan automatic transmissions really do not like to get hot. Alternatively, if you find another automatic too expensive, you can just swap in a manual and have fun clutching.

There is really nothing to it. Spray the studs down with penetrating oil. Get a right angle drill and a long strong bit. Go slow then take the studs out with EZ out.

The key to drilling is to go slow and lube the bit. Be careful to not drill into the water jacket. There are multiple ways of getting the stud out. 1. Once you drill into the stud, turn the entire gun out as the drill bit should be wedged enough into the stud to grab it and screw it out. 2. Use a special bit that locks into the stud once you drilled a hole through the center. 3. Drill a hole and tap a left hand bolt inside then use that to pull out the stud. Getting a whole stud out is easy. You just need slim nuts. You jam one with the other and turn. Using an impact gun might help too.

They look alright. You can always screw that zerk back in.

Of course. The exhaust leak messes with the oxygen sensor reading. $200-300 for studs is not bad at all. You can do it yourself too.

Don't replace the face plates. You can replace the entire section but once you take the needle off it's really hard to put it back on into the right spot. There is no different gear set between KMH and MPH clusters.

You can make a reverse induction smooth cowl without any adverse effects. Not sure if you will like the looks of that though.

Check the fluid out too. If it's roasted, change it right away. Looks like you may have overheated the transmission and burned the fluid. There is still hope.

Well this is new... Did you hook up the filter in the right direction?

Check for any carbon deposits around exhaust manifold studs and such. Exhaust leaks will really screw things up for a computer.

You can get some nice solid mats from http://www.weathertech.com/ Just noticed the post above mine... WeatherTech is worth it

No, he mounted the entire controller on the shroud because the probe was too short and could not be extended. Since the controller has a circuit board, it was fried by water when he dunked the truck. It's common sense to water seal any electrical circuitry from water. Of course it was half FAL's fault too for failing to realize the flaws of the controller setup.

If you have a bigger aftermarket exhaust and/or a cold air intake that's normal. The hesitation should be gone when you hit the C mark. The issue here is the MAF sensor reading a value that's slightly off to the factory ECU programming. Once the engine warms up and the oxygen sensor starts sending data to the ECU, everything goes back to normal. If you don't have any mods, I would check for the exhaust leaking or an intake leak.