Tungsten

I don't know if there is even a benefit to installing an MSD coil. Pathfinder ignition systems are crazy good. If it makes you happy though... It's pretty cool how the factory harness fit but you should change the coil wire, that looks way too sketchy.

That's the factory setup of the WD21 with VG30E. lol

Did you turn the wheels to full stop when you did this? If it wants to stick that generally is a sign of the rack failing. Does the pump whine?

Loose belt for sure. Sounds like one of them need more tension.

Jack up the front wheels, open the reservoir, turn the wheels left and right about 20 times. Then start the engine and turn them left and right again. Then lower the front wheels back on the pavement, check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it off as needed. Then close the reservoir and turn the wheels again and see if that made any difference. Easy as pie.

Yeah you can just add an extra bracket that bolts the thing to the frame instead.

Either the pump or the rack might be on its way out and knowing Nissan it's most likely the pump. Are you sure you don't have air in the system?

That's exactly what it is. Those CAI kits (not to be confused with a true cold air intake) only help by eliminating silencers and sometimes providing a larger surface area for air to come in. It has nothing to do with actually lowering the intake temperature. The problem with a heated intake is the aluminum plenum, especially the upper one, can actually soak up heat while you are on the street and make the intake run too hot. That's where the intake temperature optimization is lost. There is not enough air flowing past the plenum to cool it off while you're idling so it will get hot to the point where it creates a lagging throttle. If you notice, most new vehicles come with plastic upper intakes because they are cheap and will actually reduce heat soak on the street. The aluminum vs plastic upper plenum debate has been forever ongoing but the differences between throttle response are only noticed on the street so it's not much of an issue on the highway between the two.

That's pretty much it. I bet the crank angle sensor would have been cheaper than paying for the warranty too.

voted

Yes, the BPT is a newer truck thing. The washable cone filters are not as easy to wash as it seems and the oil can ruin the MAF sensor. They can also suck up water when you're wheeling and make you hydrolock. A little cooler air would only be possible if you could isolate the intake from the coolant. It's not as easy as it looks. A cold air intake will allow you to make more power by allowing you to burn more fuel at a more open throttle. A warmer air intake will make you open the throttle more for the same amount of power therefore reducing the amount of work your engine has to do to get air into the opening. A warmer intake reduces pumping loss at the expense of horsepower and results in cleaner emissions. Theoretically speaking, a hot air intake will increase fuel efficiency at normal speeds while a cold air intake will increase fuel efficiency and power in the top end. Unless you like driving around with your foot to the floor, which is wide open throttle, getting a cold air intake is not a very good idea. If you want the best of both worlds, a ram air intake would be the best as incoming air will be more dense when you go faster.

Is it a ram air system by any chance? You can get 1 extra mpg by just using a nicer and cleaner air filter. The gain could have come from simply replacing an old and dirty air filter. Also sometimes ditching the intake silencers may improve throttle response.

It's not going to make much difference. Putting one of those CAI kits on only bypasses the silencers and maybe makes the air get sucked in more efficiently, which is where the small extra gain comes from. Other than that the air will still heat up inside the intake plenum before it gets to the combustion chamber.

I'm curious myself about why you needed a 2 piece mount. The relocation adapter should make things easier, not harder.

This is a forum, not a personal...

Rebuild them. Aftermarket CV's are a crap shoot.

Sorry to be bursting everybody's bubbles here but this is the real deal: You can't get the intake to run cold. Why? That has to do with the way the coolant is routed. Hot coolant returns through the lower intake manifold to make the intake air very hot. Why? Hot intake air creates a more complete burn and results in lower emissions. That being said, you can still do something about it like adding a heat blocking spacer between the upper and lower plenums. Apparently it was of some benefit to MY1PATH. Check the product review section on the forum for more details. The other thing you can look into for a quick power increase is either disabling the EGR valve by pulling its vacuum off and capping it or converting the EGR valve to an EGR-BPT style valve. Of course the last thing you can do is a better exhaust system with headers but that's not going to be cheap. I run a EGR-BPT valve and have a 2.50" exhaust with short tube headers and I have to say that the power increase is there over stock and it never failed an inspection. To actually get the intake to run cold, you will need to change the heads with special racing heads with their own cooling lines and use velocity stacks which will not pipe the return coolant. FYI: You can also look into an e-fan conversion as that would take some drag off the engine. Almost forgot to mention... As far as those cone filters are concerned, they will give you a nice small boost because they eliminate the intake silencers. However, they are expensive to replace, can get a bit loud, and run you at a risk of ingesting a little too much water off-road. Apexi makes good paper cone filters that should block water from coming in but that will get even more expensive quickly.

Is it getting enough fuel? The fuel filter or the fuel strainer could be plugged up causing this.

worn out u-joints is all it is

You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. That's one of the symptoms of an air intake leak. You could try wiggling MAF sensor wires too.

Yes I did read it and didn't really understand what he was saying. I thought he said it could bounce around a little but engage the gear anyway. Nevermind then...

If there was an example of the relocation kit done right, it would be this.

Ok I didn't know how severe it was. That definitely sounds like an issue if you have that much play. At least the part is cheap.

Sure is! The only reason I'm saying that is a little bit of shifter play is absolutely normal. If it gets to a point where the shifter starts popping out of position then you can get replacement bushings. Otherwise if it's not broken, don't fix it.

If it's not falling out, leave it alone.