Tungsten

It can be! Take what Precise1 said about the engine swap and add a turbocharger (Garrett T3) to that along with some VG30 cams and you have the ultimate VG block in the ultimate IFS pathfinder.

If your model is 4WD then the heat is probably coming in from a ripped up shifter boot for the transfer case. Lift up the leather portion of the shifter to inspect.

Alright I did the bearing race trick but only on the front side since the rear was fine... I have to admit that it doesn't look very clean but it works better than it ever did. I used the factory sleeves since the aftermarket sleeves were a bit loose but also decided to experiment with regular aftermarket rubber bushings first before I went to poly to see what the difference might be.

Is the dot on the gear lined up? Did you ever check the timing belt?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-048&Category_Code=TBN

Good old square tooth belts! The teeth get stripped clean off with the square tooth sprockets. I see this happen quite often on square tooth belts. They are extremely sensitive to tension and once the belt stretches out a little the teeth on the sprockets just remove the teeth on the belt clean off. Usually takes a while but this is the reason the square tooth belts have a lower interval than round tooth ones. Although the round teeth are not resistant to being stripped off either! They just last a little bit longer. You can actually upgrade to round teeth if you get another square tooth block:

Start looking for a wrecked R50 Pathfinder or a WD22 Xterra. The 3.3 is a great upgrade and you can do it with the factory ECU. All the parts that you need for conversion can be acquired quite cheaply too. VG30E Bore: 87mm or 3.43in Stroke: 83mm or 3.27in VG33E Bore: 91.5mm or 3.6in Stroke: 83mm or 3.3in The bigger bore block also has thicker walls, a better oil pump, a better oil filter location, a better oil filler neck, a beefier crankshaft, and better head castings. The only thing you want to do is swap the VG30E camshafts over to the VG33E.

http://www.mgaguru.com/tales/odyssey4.htm Yes, it can happen!

Some of the best pads will usually squeak while breaking in. Just drive it. As far as greasing the back side of the pads, I have done that crap and it did not do anything. Pathfinder pads usually sit very tight so there is no need to grease the pads.

They did! The center link would completely transfer over from 2WD to 4WD models if the adjusters were the same and if the outer tie rods were not angled on the 2WD models. In fact it is the same setup that Toyota uses and they don't have steering issues with using larger tires.

If johny joints were better than tie rods then Nissan would have originally used them. Tie rods are much better regardless of what you may have seen on the Internet or TV. Check out these two threads for a stout steering system conversion: http://www.nissanpat...tem-conversion/ http://www.nissanpat...teering-damper/ I have been running mine for a while now and it works just awesome.

Are you saying that the belt has tension but the engine cranks over without the belt moving? Your crankshaft might have snapped in half so only the back end of it is cranking. If that's the case, it is the first time I have heard of this happening. It's believable though as the crankshafts are just about the weakest part of the VG30E engines.

Yeah I like those lights and the covers. KC lights are awesome.

The XEs that came with sunroofs I think had dealer installed sunroofs instead of factory installed ones. The aftermarket sunroofs are also tons better than OEM ones. I have an OEM sunroof on my SE yet the XE models at the wrecker had much nicer aftermarket sunroofs that were actually tinted (instead of that crosshatch OEM crap) and had slide out shades. I never saw an SE with height adjustable seats.

How many miles on the truck? When was the last belt replaced? The rotor is spun by the cam so if it's not moving then the cam is not spinning. Looks like you may have made valve soup. Can you pull the upper timing belt cover and check it out?

The mounting holes of the alternators are the same between SOHC VG, KA, and NAPS-Z engines. Just get a 90A Maxima alternator and then a late WD21 Pathfinder V-belt pulley at your local wrecker and swap it on. If you can't get a pulley, then cut a piece of a pipe off and make a spacer with that for the older pulley.

I second this! These were taken at the same time using the same exposure and aperture (same camera settings). I made my own harness.

Sounds like a rich mixture problem to me. You need to make sure there are absolutely zero leaks before the oxygen sensor.

Never mount a controller outside unless it's extremely well protected from the elements and is in a relatively cooler location. On that note, that's it, the write-up is completed. Enjoy.

Doug Thorley short tube headers come with a 2.5" Y-pipe. Other than that you will have to make your own.

A cheap controller is a waste. It doesn't do much at all that's actually useful. Unlike many controllers, this one also has a fan off setting. You can never over-cool the radiator like that. The real reason why you want the controller is fuel efficiency. You don't want the fan to be on while the engine is warming up. You can do it manually with switches but it's not the ideal way. I prefer my stuff to be autonomous and do the work for me.

stock vg30 cams are fine and the ECU isn't going to be a cheap mod and with very little improvement if any headers might help a little but that needs a full exhaust to actually be functional re-gear is the best because it would bring the rpms back into the proper efficiency curve

How slow is it? You should be able to get up to 60 mph in about 10-12 seconds.

No problem. You can safely hard wire the fan to the battery without a controller but only with a fuse. It's not an issue to have the fan running all the time. You will need a switch to shut the fan off when you shut the engine off. The only problem when having a fan with no controller is inefficiency. Do not shut the fan off while the truck is running because the temperature gauge lags. You will have a high chance of an overheat if you try to manually control the fan. PM me with some pictures of the current installation and I will try solve your fan and electrical problems.

Both the VG and KA are bullet proof motors, at least in N/A form. The VG is actually a little bit more efficient than the KA but the KA has much less maintenance (it's a timing chain driven camshaft) and is simpler with its 4 cylinders. V-slant engines are always more efficient than in-lines but much more complicated and harder to deal with. In terms of power the KA24E has slightly less torque than the VG30E that you will feel the difference on in a Pathfinder. However, the KA24DE is just on par with the VG30E (or in some cases even better) in reality despite a 20 ft lbs peak torque difference. Only thing is since the KA24DE was introduced around OBD II season, you will need the appropriate computer to run it (so you can take advantage of the benefits when using dual camshafts). Going turbo might be a little peaky. Many turbo 4 cylinder engines have a very peaky power band so they are not very easy to drive. The other thing is PRICE. VGs are crazy expensive to build and get power out of. The KAs, not so much. This has to do with the size of the intake/exhaust valves. The VG has tiny valves to improve low end power but it can be a dog for top end power unless it's boosted. The swap will definitely work out. It would be nice to see something different. Someone else swapped a VG30DETT on here! A KA24DET should be pretty fun to do.