Tungsten

No but it is a 2 into 1 muffler. A straight pipe will not work but a Y pipe will. At that point you might as well just get another muffler. Y pipes can get a little expensive to fabricate.

Yeah I asked those same questions. The answers are probably obvious. Don't drive it fast.

My truck is a 1991 SE-V6 and it came with this really weird tint option. Only the rear quarter panel windows are tinted. The passengers windows are not tinted and neither is the back window. Not sure what they were thinking there. Is it possible to match the OEM gold tint of the rear windows on to all of the other windows? I will not be doing the front windows or the windshield because of the tint laws.

That's insane for an R50. Good work. I know you built it for off-road but I am curious about one aspect of it. How does it ride now with all that extra unsprung weight? Also is it as stable on the road as it was before?

Looks awesome. I wish I knew about those Volvo fans earlier. You should make custom shrouds that fit stock Pathfinder radiators with those fans in them. They are the ultimate electric fan mod.

Just a FYI but on the WD21 the breather tube exits right behind the cruise control actuator. Probably irrelevant to this thread but wanted to post it somewhere related.

They will differ! The shroud is like some of the plastic in the interior. It's decent until it stays on a hot radiator for quite some time. The shrouds seem to lose their plastic bonding and turn brittle from heat. Mine was weird where it was like a cracker on one side and reasonably flexible and strong on another.

Theoretically copper will conduct better than platinum but copper will not last as long. I run platinum plugs and have no issues with them. G-powers are nice plugs. I would run V-powers if I had better means of changing the plugs every 5 oil changes.

I agree with TME The mounts have to be rotated like OEM or those bushings will disappear quickly under steep flexing and the shock will bend.

This made me like those Xterras

Yes, this is how the early flares and flaps look like.

The shrouds on these trucks are surprisingly weak and break very easily. I didn't believe it at first until I broke mine taking it out. They seem very flexible but yet they're not as tough as they seem.

Amsoil Synthetic ATF is the ONLY thing I would replace Nissanmatic D with.

It's a tiny bit off. Pulls a little to the left. The alignment on these trucks never stays straight anyway because of the rubber bushing reinforcement on the lower control arm. It can make the alignment change over time depending on how those bushings flex and compress. This is why those bushings have to be replaced as a maintenance item. I should probably get the truck aligned again after replacing those bushings. I can also try to compensate for the bump steer by increasing positive caster with shimming. Or I can try to jack up the front end more and see what that does to the geometry. People confuse bump steer for feedback. Given that the ride height is stock and that the tie rods are almost parallel to the center link you would have the following effects with tie rod lengths: The longer tie rod ends give less feedback and have more angle tolerance and more leverage but at the same time have more bump steer. The shorter tie rod ends give more feedback but have less bump steer. At the same time they have less angle tolerance and less leverage. Once the suspension is lifted, you would obviously want longer tie rods to compensate for the lift angles. At the factory height it would most likely be better with the Isuzu style link but with a lift you are much better off with the 2WD Hardbody link because the benefits then outweigh the drawbacks. http://www.circletra...ed/viewall.html

They should all have the same exact bolt holes. The frame doesn't change with idler arms even if they vary. I had a small issue with my AC brace not lining up properly either. The error probably comes from welding precision error. I just took it to a machine shop and they corrected it for me. Works perfectly well now and fits great. My only complain is the bottom protector plate sticking out a little too far down.

You can make a SAS friendly for daily use. If not, another WD21 or a WD22 (00-04 Xterra) would be two good choices. An early R50 would be a great choice too as long as it doesn't have rotten strut towers.

I'm surprised no one mentioned adding a transmission cooler yet. It is an auto right?

What's wrong with the WD21 you have now? I see an Xterra as a bit of a downgrade in a few departments. The old Pathfinders may be slower but I can guarantee they have better fuel economy when they run right. Check out my fuel economy log if you are interested in what a WD21 is capable of getting. http://www.fuelly.com/driver/tungsten11/pathfinder If you have trouble getting a WD21 without any rot on it, the 2000-2004 Xterra is your next best choice. The 2005+ ones seem to have only gone down again in quality but you do get even more power at no expense of fuel economy.

Alright got to test it out off-road and after a few months of driving around with this set up here are my experiences: First, the bad: The so called bump steer, which is actually toe change on bumps, is more present with this 2WD link than it was with the 4WD link. The reason for that is the longer more inner placed tie rods. The ideal tie rod placement would place the inner joint as close as possible to the same line as where the control arms are attached. The 2WD link setup is just about the opposite of that where the 4WD link setup has more ideal inner tie rod placement. I can hear the tires chirp sometimes under tight turning or going over dips and humps at speed. The toe alignment definitely gets sketchy with this 2WD link when driving over big bumps but it's not noticeable at all when going over smaller bumps. The steering stabilizer definitely helps to offset this negative effect. Now, the good: This system is definitely more durable than the 4WD linkage was. The reason for that is the tie rods will no longer try to hammer out the center link joints. The entire problem in the 4WD link only comes from a poor placement of the joints. If the joints for the tie rods were perpendicular with the joints for the pitman and idler arms, the 4WD link would have zero issues. Unfortunately they just happen to be parallel to each other so they don't last and when they get sloppy, the tie rods will bend. The only weak point of the 2WD system are the crooked shaped inner tie rods but so far they have caused no problems of any kind and seem to hold up really well. Then there is much more leverage on the wheels from the longer tie rods and this makes even large tires very easy to turn with the factory box. Also, the steering feels more numb so it's much more enjoyable off the road. There is very little feedback and the steering stabilizer removes the feedback from the bumps entirely. Just point the wheel and go. The added bump steer effect of the long tie rods seems to just go away when going off road because the vehicle is not moving as fast compared to on road and the surface is already uneven. In short, the 2WD link swap is a much better system for off the road but it is not as great on the road as the 4WD link set up was. The next step would be to find out if an Isuzu center link fits. The loops for the tie rod joints are exactly like on the 2WD link but they are placed where the 4WD link would have them. This type of a center link should give the best of everything.

You can get them directly from Summit too. In fact you can even get stainless steel hangers.

It's not going to. Mine is custom made. I was trying to show the factory location of the fastener.

They probably didn't realize it before. There is a TSB that specifies the use of Nissanmatic C, which is now dated, to improve rough shifting. Either way, rough shifting is good, makes the transmission last longer with quicker shifts. If you don't like that, use Nissanmatic D and it will be much less present in cold weather.

They are just regular through bolt rubber dinguses. You can easily unbolt the old ones (or cut them off) and install new ones. Or you can put a universal hanger and use it with a U bolt type clamp.

White LED lights are perfectly legal.

The only real solution to this problem is to fill the transmission with Nissanmatic D fluid.