Tungsten

When you get them, make sure you get new gaskets.

There is more than the FSM. If you have an All-Data or an Identifix subscription or know someone with one, those can be real handy. Shops use them.

You should just drain the radiator and refill it every few years. This way you are always running good coolant. There is no other way to go about doing it without making a mess. Even if you can't replace it 100%, it's still better to replace some than none. Generally, coolant lasts a long time before anything starts happening to it. Back in the older days of crappier vehicles, you had to run coolant in the winter and water in the summer because coolant would eat through the seals and stuff like that. Not the case anymore.

There is no height adjustment on SE seats. The driver seat will only tilt forward and back.

You can place them on top of the brush guard too. That would be a more ideal place if you plan to run the guard. I was just thinking more rally style placement since rally cars don't have brush guards.

How are your strut rod bushings?

Yes, that. They just pop out from behind and are sturdy enough to hold something without moving around. I was leaning toward hood placement and not fender placement. That works but it's not a really good spot for a light because it's going to reflect off the hood rather than off the road.

SE seats are more comfortable and sportier feeling but the XE are your basic truck seats I noticed that the SE seats sink you more closer to the floor while the XE seats elevate you up a bit

Never heard of STI before. Yazaki makes the OEM wires for Nissan. NGK wires are pretty good, especially the 8mm ones. MSD ignition makes some pretty decent wires. Bosch makes great replacement wires too. All a matter of preference. I do suggest staying away from el cheapo wires because they just don't last long.

I would secure the lights to the hood inserts. You can modify them and if you ever want to go back you can just get new inserts.

I use a high flow filter too but an HKS one and not K&N. I know it doesn't trap as much as paper would but like I said earlier and nismothunder did too, the stuff not caught will have no effect. In fact K&N warranties their filter for a million miles. You just have to go through the process of cleaning and re-oiling instead of tossing the old and putting in the new.

Ok now I see. He is asking about lights on the hood and not turn signals. I mentioned LED strips on the hood for that. So much for my attention span... You can definitely do rally style lights on the hood. Getting them to fit nicely is a different story because there are no aftermarket adapters made for this.

Check the battery cables. You may have ripped one attachment point on the cable off somewhere.

Nothing. The law is you can't do it. In the USA though I don't think anyone cares as long as the signals are there.

I wish I had the money to make the Pathfinder look like KITT inside. It's a personal preference.

Re-gear is the best option.

You can place LED strips on the hood if you wanted to. In Japan, all trucks must have the turn signals placed below the headlamps and no light can be combined, which is why Pathfinders have them there.

I remember they had a complete cluster that could actually fit the space on the box dash models. No idea if it actually fits but it does look pretty amazing.

There are ventilation holes in the front doors and then there are ventilation holes in the back of the rear windows. There are other places with intentional holes too. They will just leak air inside the cab. You can tape them off if you want to. The reason why Pathfinder interiors do not insulate well is their interior is completely cardboard. You are pretty much driving around in a cardboard box. New cars have much nicer trim panels with padding and stuff so they insulate much better. This was the 80s when the car companies just went maximum cheap on the chassis to save weight. These days the chassis designs are better than they have ever been but the engines and drive-trains are nearly disposable.

That's how Nissan designed these boxes. You can see there is some nasty crap at the bottom and most of it was missing because it kept breaking up and going out of the drain hose.

If you have factory axles that are still tight and have no leaks, do not replace them. The mileage does not matter if they work.

Transmission cooler. Definitely invest in one if it's an automatic.

I did that with the dome light when I added an extra map light and lighted visors. The zip tie was removed when the wires were soldered together and sealed. It all came out like that, which is the best method of doing this. In this case, it has been fine by just piggy backing a wire inside the connector. There is plenty of stuff there to hold the wire inside the connector. I agree that it's definitely not the best way but it makes me feel iffy when I have to hack into more important factory harnesses. I set up the entire thing for now where the process can be reversed if I ever wanted to pull everything out. I also did it for testing purposes just in case it was the incorrect wire. I did verify that it was the correct one by checking with a multimeter after I already plugged it in. If the wire falls out or ever becomes an issue, I will tap it in like I did with the map light but that requires ripping the harness apart which is sealed with wire tubing. That can be a real pain! Since it's really not a crucial wire for fan operation, it should be fine like that.

Yeah I was originally going to post it here but realized what a mess it would be.

Hopefully you can get it fixed. If not, you got a wheeler.