Tungsten

Even the regular warranties they give on new cars are nearly worthless. Extended? You have to be kidding. They are better than nothing but they really won't cover much either. Here is an example: I was at a Nissan dealership buying a few maintenance parts and when I was at the cashier, a guy in front of me was complaining about an $800 bill to fix his air conditioner because the air conditioner was not covered under warranty by Nissan. You really want to find out what is covered and what isn't first. Then if you ever do have a problem and for some reason you are lucky and covered, prepare to camp out at your dealership for days and/or drive their crappy loaner.

The best style fixture for LED is one where the LEDs are actually laid out in an array like this: The final result after the housing will be this:

You can mount the cooler in any orientation but make sure the lines are away from anything that's sharp.

Good point on that.

Climate affects how they age. If you live in an area with extreme changes in climate, those plastic things become severely brittle and snap right in half when you twist.

They come in all shapes and sizes. Just check the spinny things at your local parts store.

Square inserts with bolts and washers actually sounds like an awesome idea.

LEDs won't work well everywhere for a few reasons: They have a narrow beam so you need a larger array to spread out the beam. Larger arrays of LED lights can make the beam way too bright for DOT approved use. The plastic reflectors were not designed for LEDs so the beam pattern will be focused into a certain spot. They will make the flasher blink too quickly because of a lower load. Also, you won't know if you have a signal that's out if you use a solid state flasher. LEDs will work in a housing designed for them. Unfortunately, the most LED you can do on a Pathfinder is installing them into the corner marker lights and on older trucks possibly switching to the HB grille style and using LED sealed beams.

Nice find.

Those things are annoying. I have like two left while the rest are zip ties. You can't really put zip ties into the corners because of how the sheet metal is welded.

I had no problems with mine. Passes inspections just as good. A stock cat is just guaranteed to last longer than an aftermarket one. http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0610_catalytic_converters/

50,000 miles is a good interval for spark plugs and it prevents them from getting stuck in the head if the person that changed them before did not use anti-seize. The factory Yazaki wires will last much longer than that. On older engines, the cap and rotor on the distributor should be replaced with the plugs. The 3.5 engines no longer use a distributor.

OK maybe you can go back but it sure won't be easy. I am really not comfortable with the idea of welding the entire bracket on either. There is almost no way to get it to align back exactly as the factory has done it. At least not that I know off...

I can see his point on testing out the bearings before selling them. He really doesn't want any damage to his reputation from people complaining about wrecked tension rods. It's not like you can go back to the factory set-up after you have gone this route. It's a one way street and there is no going back once you expanded out the hole.

Here is the plenum underneath. Thanks to silverton for the picture. Here it is without anything attached. Picture taken from Z31.com, http://www.z31.com/mods/pathy.shtml As you can see, no actual cooling lines go through the plenum.

The air bleeder screw? That's actually not in the plenum but only attached to it.

Stacked all the way. Tube and fin is only a cheaper alternative.

That's an excellent setup. Where did you get those lines made? I tried to do this once but couldn't find a way to attach it there. I may actually go this route now and try again.

Zip ties are not acceptable clamps.

Revisions posted. Thanks to MY1PATH for revising the upper manifold section routing.

I bet that took quite a while to torque all those bolts down.

VG30E version -> Note how the coolant line passes between the IACV regulator and the upper manifold but it does not pass through either of them but only between the two. VG30i version Enjoy. Created by me with LibreOffice Draw. I made this block diagram to visually show the difference between a VG cooling system circuit and a conventional cooling system. Since the VG engine designers have not followed many conventions if any at all, the cooling system is routed entirely different from a typical system. As you can see, there is no need to have the thermostat open to fill up the block. You can fill the entire block directly through the upper return hose. Try doing that with another engine. EDIT: Thanks to MY1PATH for revisions.

Check the fluid -> http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33607-sudden-loss-in-powerpropulsion

Did you buy the truck used or new? It may have been changed once and the person filling it checked the fluid with the engine not running so it seemed a little low.