Tungsten

Results: Turned it on today, works great.

Yes I am but planning to convert to E-fan ASAP. My fan clutch isn't engaging all the time either which gives me problems with the A/C and the engine temp going up too high with A/C. I will try to burp the cooling system first but chances are the fan clutch is just too far away from the radiator to sense it properly. I am not running a factory fan clutch so that could be one reason. Either way, what I am going to do is to try and integrate a 3.8 Taurus fan into the factory shroud. That should help out big time and I may even pick up a few extra miles to the gallon.

Coils are the way to go. They take up less room and ride much nicer. As far as the steering goes, the weakest spot of the Pathfinder IFS is actually the tension rods and tension rod bushings. They are the ones that screw up your steering big time, especially with heavy angles. The idler arm and center link are problem spots too but they are significantly amplified by the poor design of the tension rods. SAS would be superior here because it would eliminate the need for those damn things.

Toss it in the can and plug the holes.

OK it's all back together and runs much smoother and quieter! The engine has a perfect idle and it's not as noisy during revs. The belt was definitely loose before. The shop that did it just left the tensioner in its factory position without actually putting any tension on the belt. Here are the two things I did in the process: http://www.nissanpat...-a-timing-belt/ http://www.nissanpat...monic-balancer/ Now I can't tell if I may have put a little too much tension on the timing belt or if it's the water pump being noisy from air in the system. The noise seems to be going away as I'm adding coolant and taking bubbles out so I'm going to lean toward that for now. It could also be the ****** bearings in the reman alternator. The tension procedure for the timing belt is just so bad. It's impossible to tell if the belt is too loose or too tight. I just used some common sense and feel. I know you have to twist it at almost exactly 90 degrees but with how much force? I guess I will see how long this belt lasts. It runs and drives for now but I might need to top off the transmission fluid from what leaked out when I disconnected the cooling lines. Wasn't much but better put some fluid back in.

That has to do with the crank shaft and bolt size. VG30Es use the smallest crankshafts with the smallest bolt.

That's good news. I knew they were interchangeable.

You can bypass the BPT valve easily. Just disconnect it from the t-fitting and cap the t-fitting. I would just bypass the entire EGR system until you can get another BPT valve.

You need to cap one end off and apply vacuum to it. If it doesn't hold vacuum then it's bad.

That valve is only there to leak the vacuum out of the EGR valve. If it's bad you might have a vacuum leak. Won't do anything for the EGR valve though.

After finishing my timing belt, I was looking for the easiest way to torque down the harmonic balancer. I did not want to do it with an impact gun because that's not as precise as a torque wrench. Precise torque is extremely important here to prevent the balancer from shearing off, which would happen if the bolt is too tight, or coming off and stripping the crankshaft keyway, which would happen if the bolt is too loose. Here is what I came up with: Step 1: Set the crank pulley at TDC. This is important if you want to be able to put the pulley back on with the marks in the correct position. Step 2: Remove the pulley. Step 3: Use one of these universal pulley tools (or make your own) and attach the holes to the balancer with long M6x1.00 screws. Step 4: Set the torque wrench to 90 ft/lbs and torque away while counteracting the pulley with the special tool. There, easy as that.

Good luck!

It's a shame that those poor things get eaten by birds as soon as they hatch. What can you do though? Can't upset the balance of nature.

This is why I do it the right way. Yes, you can recharge the system manually with gauges and a vacuum pump. You have to be really careful with that though. Too bad R12 got phased out. It was a much more superior refrigerant to R134a. Propane and butane works too but you don't want to run those.

Looks like Turtles

Having one or not having one will not make a difference in fuel economy. That's what some people on here say anyway. At least from my testing, it has not made a difference.

No problem

The outlets should not matter for an electrical fan as the tie down points for the shroud should be in the same place.

There are a few fan controllers I would recommend based on what my experiences were and what other members said: 1. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=641/prd641.htm 2. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-30332/ 3. http://www.amazon.com/Flex---lite-31165-Variable-Control/dp/B000CNN3LS/ As far as I can tell, the first one can be calibrated to the factory gauge (even though they do not recommend doing this). Do not buy a cheap Hayden unit, they have been proven to be unreliable.

KA24E and VG30E have the same radiators.

I only wish there was something less cheap looking. I mean those look like they came from the Pep Boys stick on section. At least they are functional.

I was saying that since I know on a WD21 you get less power and lower fuel economy if you put in high octane fuel.