Tungsten

Looks like I will be replacing this one myself. I just got a 3/8" Snap-On torque wrench and a DeWalt 18v 3/8" cordless impact along with some 3/8" adapters. Look at all the nice tools I can buy by not going to a shop!

Get a bag that's close and store the cover under the rear seats.

I recall there was also a little bag that Nissan gave you to store the cover in. Good luck finding that one!

Yes, it really depends on where you live. Having no cover around here is not much of an issue.

I never use that cover anyway. Mine has been missing for years now. I understand why you would want to cover it but I never have and the only downside was that my plastic vents melted.

Who knows? You may have got lucky.

If you want a 4Runner, get one from the previous generation. The post 2010 ones are really not much different and the older ones gave you more features like auto-start.

Yes, it will. The code will stay on as EGR function but since the excess exhaust gas isn't borking up the intake you should not have drive-ability issues. There are vehicles that do not run without the EGR valve in place but these will work without the EGR just fine. If you want to get rid of the code, go pull a EGR valve from the junkyard and check it for sticking. You can get several and try them all.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy... Block off the exhaust port that goes to the exhaust manifold and block off the intake port on the intake manifold. Then cap the vacuum line on the EGR kill solenoid.

Go for it. Rebuild them and they will last longer than any non-factory replacement.

What about the check engine light? Has that been done away with?

I put new Cardone Select shafts on a Toyota and they worked well but I may have been lucky there. It's true. The auto parts industry sucks big fat hairy donuts. Your best bet is getting parts from the dealer and paying double the price so you don't have to do the same job twice.

What did I say that was wrong? A stock run of the mill 350 doesn't make 300 hp. Expensive parts will push it past that.

Yeah I have no idea. I must have got a defective one. Good point on not getting the timing belt wet with coolant.

I started to have some issues with my old Nissan water pump (which had a small leak because the seal broke apparently) and have always used Nissan water pumps but decided to try something different on this timing belt interval as it was already coming up. I used a Gates timing belt and tensioner along with a Gates water pump. The timing belt and tensioner component kit works great, I can't ask for more and it saved me a good chunk of cash. The water pump however decided to crap out on me in less than 5000 miles. I guess I got a bad one? Removing the water pump and alternator v-belt makes the noise go away. I had a rebuilt alternator that failed on me as well so I used a good known alternator (which is a fresh rebuilt I will be replacing later) that was bench tested and half of the terrible noises went away but it did not make this noise. Here is the video when I changed the alternator with a good one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syrzQWHnCjU As you can see the pulley is a little shaky and the pump is making some terrible bearing noises but it is not leaking. Is it possible to replace the water pump without removing the timing belt? If not can I re-use the timing belt and tensioner? This timing belt has less than 5000 miles on it as it was done when the pump was replaced. I already ordered a new Nissan water pump because I know it is proven to last at least a while before needing to be replaced. To answer some questions... No, I never run straight water in my cooling system. No, my fan clutch is not shot and has zero play. No, the belts were never over-tightened. As you can see I am pretty much screwed here. No doubt I am going to have to drain the radiator and while I am at it any coolant recommendations are welcome.

Cardone Select should be the new CVs. They work just fine.

x2 You can always convert to fuel injected later on. Just get the engine running carburated first.

OK but that four barrel is an expensive part.

They did but not over 300. Then they went to fuel injection and got more power. Not sure if he is planning on running a carb one or fuel injected.

There is a temperature probe at the inlet of the EGR intake port. If the temperature level is too high or too low, you get a code.

Same... I had a go with a few 4runners and let me tell you they are slower than slow. If you think Nissan trucks are gutless then you never tried Toyota trucks.

If you can't fix it, you can discard it. Just have to plug the holes.

Well that would cause a problem. That's why I asked about the EGR way back.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_small-block_engine