Tungsten

Alright time for some pics of the whole thing!

Yeah I was asking him about this earlier. Seems to work really well but needs more testing. I'm debating if I should get a bearing race cup thing now or wait out for this. I'm leaning toward this method first unless he finds something wrong with it during testing. Other than that it looks like a fine product.

A little off-topic but it's pretty cool how R50s have them as part of the headliner so the shade never gets lost.

So were you able to get any alternator dyno results?

That looks like a fun one. Can you list what you already did exactly?

Yeah that's it. Mine sounds just like that open. It's loud as hell but just driving around and not flooring it everywhere sounds like a broken muffler. [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgn_QqqZ8dI[/media] The 50 should sound exactly like this at WOT but with a little deeper tone.

It sounds good open at idle for sure. It gets pretty unbearable driving though. You don't lose the torque from the lack of back pressure as long as the primary tubes and cross over pipe is there. The torque is lost from the ECU doing funny things with sensors when there is too much air flow. The oxygen sensor is sensing too much oxygen so you get a bad air/fuel map. I think if you just made a long pipe with the oxygen sensor in it, you would gain a good amount of power.

If you say so! Then I might just switch to the poly bushings in the mean while leaving the cup out. The soft factory ones just compress and slop everywhere.

Will do! V8s have a special thing about them where they will sound great with anything and everything you strap on them. Heck even leave the muffler off and it sounds great. A V6 is a completely different story... It performs more like a 4 popper and only hits the right notes in certain RPMs. A 40 series on this engine is really raspy. I can't speak for everyone but I myself don't like it. The 40 just makes the truck sound like there is no muffler. Kingman had a 40 on his so he could chime in. I would not go any lower than Super 44. I'm not a fan of highway droning though so I got something more quiet.

It sounds close to stock but with a more aggressive rumble. It will still manage to drone a little at speeds above 60 mph but that comes from the size of the pipe more than the muffler. I will post some acceleration videos soon and highway cruising videos. You really don't want anything louder than this on a VG otherwise it is way too raspy and annoying. I do a lot of night driving past 1 AM and don't want to be a douche to the people trying to sleep. I tried a couple of mufflers before this and the FM 50 DF is one I liked the most but that's a personal choice. The FM 60 DF I had before was pretty good too but the biggest one there is a 2.25" as it is targeted more toward 4 bangers. If I built a 2.25" system with Pacesetter headers, that would be the muffler I would go with instead.

New videos added... Have made a few improvements with hangers and fixed a couple of leaks. More detailed explanation and showcase of the exhaust system too. It was not entirely possible to make it straight because the transfer case was in the way so there are two mellow bends around it. Other than that, the midpipe, the catalytic converter, and the muffler are all lined up straight and centered relative to each other. The tailpipe is obviously not straight but as I found out my exhaust pipe could not exit next to the passenger door. If I had the exhaust dump before the axle, it would not be street legal. [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoxuc_lWzH8[/media] [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4zNVQcrD4_U[/media] Copy and paste from the video description: Complete with headers and high flow components this stainless steel system was mostly home made out of small pipe sections. The exhaust system was done in 2.5" for maximum flow without losing torque and it perfectly matches the output of the Y-pipe. There are a total of 3 hangers. Two on the tailpipe and one bracket welded to the muffler (muffler bracket was not shown in the video). It has been solid for 1 year now without any issues or corrosion problems. The vehicle does pass free state inspection, which makes it entirely street legal. The engine is a VG30E but this system will work on a VG33E just as well. Here is a break-down of the system: Headers: Doug Thorley Short Tube Headers w/ 2.5" collector Mid-pipe: Home made from 3 45 degree 2.5" sections (304 stainless) Catalytic converter: Magnaflow High Flow in mirror finish and 2.5" Muffler: Flowmaster 50 Delta Flow in 2.5" (center in/center out) Tail-pipe: Home made from various 45 and 90 degree 2.5" sections (304 stainless) The piping was provided by Accel tube. Enjoy!

The thing is Mr. 510s headers are not compliant with emissions since there is no EGR bung and I don't think he developed a Y-pipe yet. I like his headers more than Thorleys though but if you live in a state that mandates vehicle inspection you are better off with Thorleys.

That's right. BTW for those who don't know what 1/8 inch steel looks like, the factory bumper mounts are 1/8 inch thick.

Yeah I have those. I just don't know what to do for the cups. I could get bearing races or use Ford F-series cup washers but Mr.510s product is looking pretty sweet. If I'm going to spend that money I would rather go for the best and buy his stuff. I would have used the poly bushings but the rotted cups just break my caster alignment.

Sadly the techs at Nissan can't get the part number I was looking for. I'm going to see what's going on and they will let me know tomorrow. If I can't get the bushing cups I think I will just wait for Mr. 510s kit.

Alright I got some fun stuff to show. I know this may have been covered before but here is the entire Maxima collection put together of what you need to know. This is the original VG30E 70A Pathfinder alternator. This is an older 90A Maxima alternator, the housing is exactly the same as the 70A Pathfinder one. The black cover on the back will just swap over. This is a newer 90A Maxima alternator, the housing is different from the 70A Pathfinder one. Here is a comparison of two alternators side by side: 70A Pathfinder one is on the left and 90A Maxima one is on the right. You can see the housings are slightly different but the pulley on the 70A one swaps over to the 90A one just fine. Old one installed New one installed

It was a guess based on my previous experiences with Nissan alternators. Here are actual test numbers from my 90A Maxima alternator: 2000 RPM = 76 Amps 2400 RPM = 89 Amps 3500 RPM = 107 Amps 5000 RPM = 115 Amps 6000 RPM = 117 Amps So as you can see it outputs 89A at 2400 rpm but 28A more at the redline. I figure the Quest version will be something like that too.

I agree 100% GrandpaX Cutting corners on a SAS conversion is possibly the stupidest thing a person can do. As far as the research is concerned, I would look into the new JK Wrangler suspension setup. It is extremely well engineered.

X2 Please do tell which belt fits. I forgot to add that the 110 A is only rated output at 3000ish rpm. Once you get into the redline you might be pushing as much as 140 A or maybe even more. That's something to look into when considering upgrading the harness.

LOL good point Well either way you won't know why you need that back window to open until you own a vehicle that doesn't have the option to open it.

It could be a little thicker. Usually it's almost impossible to tell between close wire gauges without a ruler.

That's great, I would love to see the install. I'm not sure if the factory harness is going to take that much under load. You might end up roasting fusible links. You could run a new harness of course.

You're* You can easily make your own sealed box if you can't put it in the cab.

You need to mount electrical circuit boards inside the cab and not on the shroud.