Tungsten

That's what I did. I was just seeing where I needed to trim the Taurus shroud to fit it inside the Pathfinder one.

Definitely go with Jegs if you want a custom all aluminium one. If you want a decent direct-fit aftermarket replacement, get a KOYORAD radiator. I have a Koyorad in my Pathfinder and it works great. It has an aluminium core with plastic upper and lower tanks. The plastic is extremely sturdy and can take heat without issues. I never had a problem with mine. Also, the Taurus fan can be integrated into the Pathfinder shroud for a cleaner look. Here are the stock radiator measurements from Koyorad.com As far as rad hoses, they should all be flexible since they are made from rubber. You can try to give these guys a call too: http://www.sillacooling.com/contact.htm They can supply all aluminium radiators.

What is this with you and Miata gripe?

In my experience handling a rack with no pump is slightly easier than handling a box without one.

Strut pivot bearings or sway bar links or bushings

To add on to the center console getting hot issue... Sometimes the 4x4 shifter boot gets ripped and lets the heat pour in while you drive.

You can try a right angle drill or a right angle drill attachment.

Yeah they are expensive shades for no reason. There are 2 different diagrams for newer and older years so maybe modifying the old one works.

The shade is only $6?

Can you by any chance transplant (or cut up) the external cooling fan?

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33545-hard-to-find-parts-for-sale/

The stock arms allow plenty of room for alignment with bigger tires but it's only the bolts that attach them are too short from factory. You need longer bolts to be able to stack more shims for camber correction. Ball-joint spacers are a plus but you most likely will not need them. Only in the most extreme cases would you even need aftermarket tubular arms. You can tweak the tubular arms if you wanted to for whatever reason without issues since they should be heavy duty. There should be no need to do that though.

pretty much the entire front end but looks fixable

Not that top one. That tensioner mounting tab is way off so it's either a DOHC application or maybe a Quest one. You may be able to swap the Pathfinder front end of the alternator on that though.

The housings are the same although I have seen some that were a little different in the back but still worked. On most of them you can even take the plastic plate on the back of the Pathfinder one and install it on the Maxima one.

Yes, as long as you keep the rack oiled there is nothing that will go wrong running it without a pump. The pump just makes the steering easier by pressurizing the oil against some weight or valve or something like that. Just don't try parallel parking. Well you can but it won't be as easy. You won't break the input shaft though so don't worry about it.

Personally I am against modifying factory one piece components such as center links and arms. You completely compromise their structural integrity. You can get aftermarket tubular arms and play with those instead.

RockAuto lists the model years as 85-94

I like the WD22 Xterras but the only thing that makes me not like them is how they had to deform the entire truck to fit a first aid kit. The back window HAS to open or it's not a real truck.

Get one from Nissan. They last the longest.

Chill bro, I figured it out just fine. I was complaining about how it's impossible to do it the way they tell you to. Actually 15 mm is 0.59 inches of deflection and that's more than 1/2 inch. It's fine the belt just had to break in all the noises are gone now aside from the slightly whiny alternator (can be verified by the v-belt). I am now 100% sure I set the proper tension.

I was thinking of one of those. I forgot what it was called. Thanks for the tip.