Tungsten

What happens if you remove all the v-belts? This may sound stupid but sometimes the accessories can make noises like this.

Essentially they are the same engine so you should be able to swap the intakes.

My problem with the Xterra is that Nissan built the entire thing around a first aid kit.

If it's carburated, the fuel pressure is going to be different. Fuel injectors need much more pressure where as with carbs as long as you got enough fuel going in to match the air, you're good. Also, I doubt that a stock 350 Chevy will make over 300hp. It may get close to making 300 but to go over that would need some expensive parts.

Vacuum leak is another really good possibility since nothing is monitored after the MAF sensor. The hose between the evap canister and the intake manifold likes to magically disappear by itself. Make sure you don't have that one missing.

OK that makes perfect sense.

Today I found out that Nissan sells the actual cups for $5 per cup. I ordered 4 of them and will see what they are talking about. The other thing is I have a set of MOOG poly bushings with the metal sleeves. Do I need the sleeves? I'm not sure how the factory one is set up. Oops! I ordered 2 kits thinking it was for each side. Apparently one kit has them all for both. PM me if you want one for $20 shipped.

You don't need that much power off-road anyway.

You mean a full time 4x4 system? Not sure but it might have come on WD21s and was later standard on R50s. In theory it sounds good but in practice it makes the vehicle thirstier without much of a handling advantage unless you were going really fast.

It's all wheel drive. They are not real lockers, just viscous couplings.

If you want to know how it compares to other 4x4s of the same era I would say the WD21 has the best 4x4 system.

Sounds like a MAF sensor or sensor wiring issue to me. When the oxygen sensor starts reading, the problem goes away.

The best way to recover gas is to just drain it from the tank. Too bad Nissan does not offer any gasoline drain plugs at the bottom of the tank. The next best thing you can do is to manually pump it out into a gas can from the fuel sender hole. Do not use a Shop Vac to suck up gasoline.

Strut rod looks reasonably clean but yes I am planning on rebuilding these things. Shouldn't take that much work anyway. It's only 3 nuts.

Make sure you haven't busted that charcoal canister. Sometimes the vacuum lines going from the canister will clog if you broke it.

That's great. I always saw them with bolt and nut but around here the stock exhaust rusts out so fast everyone has already replaced theirs. Now it makes me wish I tapped the flanges instead of using a nut. That sounds like a better idea in theory. I don't know how well that works in practice.

well then don't break off those heads

I think I will get a Ford cup welded on there for the time being and swap out the bushings for some poly ones just to prevent the whole thing from self destructing. I get torque steer going highway speed because of the toe and caster change from those ridiculously designed bushings. I can't wait to see the prototype! I am definitely interested as that will also allow me to run a front limited slip differential without destroying the tension rods.

Just wondering as I am missing one of the cups. I also want to know if it's normal for that bushing to be squeezing out like that.

I would rather buy ethanol free as well but I am SOL with that around here. Back on topic... Most injector cleaners are no better than regular fuel additives. 3M seems like a trustworthy brand though and they do sell some kits.

You can always get a cold air filter and adapter.

I am leaning toward the injectors being corroded. They always cause a bunch of fun problems when they fail to inject more fuel. That has been an issue ever since ethanol started to be put into gasoline. The other thing I would check for is vacuum leaks. Try replacing some of those hoses. Sometimes they look good but are not.

You can have fun with your Escort but chances are it will have a nice big hole in the oil pan.